r879-] HARDY FRUITS. 311 



indicated how a constant supply of small young Carrots may be had for as 

 long a period as is possible with the ordinary appliance possessed by an ordi- 

 nary amateur. 



The main crop will require lifting and storing by October. They may be 

 buried in sand in a dry corner of a cool cellar or shed, or they may be put in a 

 pit in the same way that Potatoes are stored. If they are just kept from frost, 

 it is enough. Heat will cause them to spring into growth, which spoils them. 



Beet requires very similar treatment to the above. Sow about the end of 

 March for an early supply ; but many of these will run to seed in summer. For 

 main crop sow at the end of April. Lift and store in the same way as recom- 

 mended for Carrots. In lifting take care not to break or bruise the roots, and 

 in cutting off the tops cut the tops only, but do not cut the roots, or they will 

 bleed and allow the juice to escape. 



Turnips for an early supply may be sown as directed for Carrots, in a hot- 

 bed or in a warm spot. Make two very small sowings in March for the chance 

 of a few ; but they will very likely run to seed before bulbing. Larger sowings 

 may be made in April with more confidence, and in May onwards in whatever 

 quantity may be required without any fear of their :i bolting." The earliest- 

 sown batches should get as favourable a position as possible, and in rich soil. 

 One great means of preventing the early sowings running to seed is to keep 

 them growing by means of rich soil. The later ones should be sown on ordi- 

 nary soils, as rich soil in their case gives a tremendous crop of leaves, but very 

 inferior roots. 



The ordinary plan practised by amateurs, of making one sowing suffice, is 

 not a good one. A small sowing every three weeks up till August is much 

 better, as it keeps up a supply of young Turnips, which are always to be pre- 

 ferred to old ones. Should fly prove troublesome, a good dusting of soot or 

 dry lime — not hot lime — when the plants are wet with dew will help them to 

 pull through, and a watering with well-diluted paraffine-oil between, not on, 

 the rows before the plants are up will sometimes prevent their appearance at 

 all. 15 inches between the rows and 9 inches between the plants in the rows 

 are suitable distances for those to be used young. Do not allow them to be 

 crowded, as is usually the case, for they grow all to tops. Swedish Turnips for 

 winter supply, or for furnishing Turnip-tops as a substitute for Seakale, require 

 to be sown towards the end of May. Allow them 20 to 24 inches between the 

 rows, according to the productiveness of the soil, and 1 foot to 15 inches be- 

 tween the plants. Store in pits like Potatoes, using plenty of straw and only 

 a few inches of earth. A Gardenek. 



HARDY FRUITS. 



The destruction of insects is perhaps the most important matter requiring the 

 attention of the fruit-cultivator at this year. Black-fly, green-fly, and cater- 

 pillars have all been well represented this year, and no ordinary attention 

 has been enough to keep them from destroying young growths. Cherries are 

 generally among the first and worst to sutler from aphis. When the shoots 

 have made good growth, and before they are tied in to the walls, an effort 

 should be made to keep down insects by syringing with tobacco-water. Where 

 there is fruit this operation is difficult to perform without doing mischief. The 

 tops of the shoots which are to be nailel in should be handled separately, dip- 



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