1871.] CULTIVATION OF HARDY FRUITS. 415 



not so much danger to the plant from the removal of suckers as ofifsets, because, as 

 a rule, the former are generally thrown up at a considerable distance from the 

 parent canes, while the latter are always produced from the base of the former 

 year's cane. It is thus evident from their position that care must be exercised in 

 their removal. The best instrument for this purpose is what is known as a sucker- 

 ing iron, which, for this purpose, ought to be nearly as sharp as a knife in order that 

 it may accomplish the purpose of separation between the parent and the offset at 

 the first attempt. 



The soil which is best suited for the Raspberry is rich alluvial soil, containing 

 more than the usual amount of moisture. Peaty soils are also very well suited 

 for the Raspberry, but it does not do so well in heavy clay-land, more especially 

 if it is much liable to cracking. In most gardens the position best suited for 

 planting the Raspberry is on a border having a northern aspect, and defended 

 from the full blaze of the noonday sun by a south wall. It is in such a position 

 that the best crops and the finest fruit we ever have seen have been produced. 

 It is almost the only crop which we possess which is thoroughly adapted to this 

 position, and how generally this is known and acted upon is evidenced from the 

 fact that, in almost every garden, this is the very place that is assigned to it. 

 Where a long continuation of the fruit is wanted, it will be necessary, however, 

 to have a few planted in an earlier position, which will yield a few fruit a week or 

 two earlier than those planted on the north aspect. Before planting a plantation 

 of Raspberries, the whole ground shoidd be trenched over as deep as possible ; 3 feet 

 will not be too much if such a depth can be reached, and any quantity of manure may 

 be dug in to the bottom of the trench. The Raspberry is a very hungry feeder, and 

 will greedily devour almost any quantity of manure which may be placed within its 

 reach. In order to give a young plantation of Raspberries a thorough start, it is 

 absolutely necessary to give a good and liberal manuring. If this is done when the 

 ground is being trenched, and the manure thoroughly incorporated with the soil from 

 top to bottom, so much the better, and there will be less need for large manurings 

 for some years to come. The soil having therefore been prepared, the next thing is 

 to procure the offsets for planting it up. This having been done, the line must be 

 stretched in the place where the row of plants are to stand ; the rows may be 

 about 6 feet apart. On one side of the line the soil ought to be taken out to the 

 depth of 6 inches, and as wide as will admit of all the roots belonging to the 

 offshoots being nicely spread out. This having been done, let a single cane be 

 planted every 18 inches in the line, the soil filled in around, and gently pressed 

 by the foot to fix and steady the plant. The next thing to be done is to erect a 

 trellis, upon which to train the young plants, unless it be deemed advisable to 

 cut them over to fvirther strengthen them, in which case it will not be neces- 

 sary to erect the trellis for another season. The way we erect our trellis is very 

 simple and inexpensive. At 10 feet apart in the line we fix strong upright stakes, 

 of the height of 34 feet, upon the top of which we fix a single rail — generally made 

 of rough fir or larch — about 2 inches broad and 1 inch thick. To these horizon- 

 tal rails each cane is fixed by means of tar-twine or bast, and is afterwards cut 

 at 6 inches higher than the rail, leaving it thus exactly 4 feet high altogether. 

 This height we consider quite sufficient, and we are of opinion that better fruit 

 and larger crops are obtained from them at this height than if they were left 

 longer. This is how they are done the first year. The second year, in all proba- 

 bility, the young offsets will number from two to four or five, according to the 

 strength of the plants when planted. Three shoots are, however, the required 

 number to each plant, so that if four or five exist, they must be reduced to this 

 at the pruning season, and trained up against the trellis, as on the former year, with 



