524 THE GARDENER. [Nov. 



growth, by potting when the wants of the roots demand extra room, and pinch- 

 ing to keep the form symmetrical and well furnished. At the same time, the 

 plants should occupy the most airy and sunny aspect of the house, as near the 

 glass as practicable. 



When the plants are large enough to suit the tastes of the cultivator, have them 

 removed from the forcing-house to another where a drier air with more light pre- 

 vails, at the same time sufficiently warm to harden the young shoots into ripeness, so 

 that the plants may furnish flowers in autumn. When winter approaches, water 

 must be given sparingly, and the plants placed in warm, dry, sunny quarters, 

 and otherwise managed as recommended for climbers while winter lasts. 



Early in February prune back the last season's wood half-way, and partially 

 shake the soil from the roots, supplying fresh soil and clean pots. Drain these pots 

 properly, and use the same compost as that recommended for the climbers. Pot 

 firmly, and after staking the growths neatly out and watering abundantly, so as to 

 reach the lowest part of the soil, place the plants in a newly-started vinery to 

 make fresh wood ; and when this has been accomplished, return them to a green- 

 house, where flowers will soon begin to form. A. Kerr. 



CULTURE OF ANTHURIUM SCHERZERIANUM ANT> 

 ALIiAMANDA CATHARTICA. 



As you ask for a paper on the culture of the above in your last num- 

 ber, I Tvill state my experience with them. They are both stove- 

 plants of easy culture. The Anthurium is of recent introduction, but 

 it is now plentiful, and can be purchased at a cheap rate ; it is, more- 

 over, a most beautiful plant, and worthy of a place in the most select 

 collection. As to culture, it requires to be carefully potted, using 

 clean pots and a liberal proportion of drainage. The best compost for 

 it is tough fibry peat, torn in pieces by the hand, and using only the 

 rough portion of it ; to this should be added some silver-sand, a small 

 quantity of Sphagnum moss, chopped fine, and a few broken pieces of 

 porous bricks or potsherds. Some fresh Sphagnum moss should be 

 placed over the drainage. In potting give a liberal shift, and press the 

 compost in firmly with the fingers : the plant should be slightly raised 

 on a mound in the centre of the pot. The plant should occupy a some- 

 what shady position in the house, as exposure to the sun is injurious 

 to it. Another recommendation to it is, that it is not only free in 

 flowering, but the spathes last a long time in perfection. I had some 

 last winter which were perfect for three months. Care must be exer- 

 cised not to allow water from the syringe to touch them. The plant 

 alluded to above began to flower last year in October, and continued 

 to throw up flower-spathes all through the winter in a temperature of 

 from 55° to 60°, and at midsummer it had upwards of a dozen flower- 

 spathes on it at one time. As to watering, it is simply impossible 

 to state how much a plant would require — it ail depends on surround- 



