iSyi.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 499 



missible after the third year. The trenched ground answers admirably for spring 

 Brocolis and Coleworts, they being first transplanted for a week or two from the 

 seed-bed ; these will be gone in time for Beet without manure, and Scarlet- 

 runner Beans, and a late planting of broad Beans with manure, to be followed 

 again by the main crop of summer Cauliflowers. 



North borders are generally well occupied in summer with Lettuces, Turnips, 

 and Cauliflowers, a portion being under Red Currants and Easpberries : in winter 

 it is the best position for late dwarf Brocolis to come in late in spring or early 

 summer, to shake hands with the early Cauliflowers. We have a particularly 

 fine strain of those^ not in the market. Between the rows of newly-planted 

 Strawberries of 24 feet apart, one row of Tripoli Onions may be planted in 

 spring ; it is an admirable position for the Onions, at least if space is limited, and 

 does not injure the Strawberries. Winter Greens and Brocolis may also be 

 grown between the rows of late Potatoes, if planted 3 feet apart. And Peas do 

 splendidly between the rows of Celery ; the Peas shade the Celery to some ex- 

 tent in the hot season, and do not interfere with the manure in the trench ; but, 

 on the whole, we dislike mixed crops. East and west borders are always in de- 

 mand for Parsley, Coleworts, seed-beds. Lettuces, sweet herbs. Radishes, &c. 

 Seakale, Rhubarb, Globe and Jerusalem Artichokes, Horse-radish, and the various 

 culinary herbs, do not work into a rotation of annual crops : indeed, one or two 

 of them are troublesome weeds, and should have a territory of their own outside 

 a kitchen-garden proper. 



After all, the necessities of the time being and various circumstances influence 

 every gardener in the choice of ground for his crops ; and, as we have hinted, 

 much depends on the soil of a garden. Part of it may lie low, with damp deep 

 soil ; another part may be high, dry, and thin. These considerations will compel 

 him to localise many crops. Again, a soil may be strong adhesive clay, and will 

 unite with very wet or very dry weather to thwart the gardener's plans, refusing 

 to be dug at one time or broken at another. Time being inexorable, the gardener 

 will have to yield his theory of rotation, and take practical necessity as his cue. 



The Squire's Gardener. 



HINTS FOR AMATEURS.— NOVEMBER. 



"While weather is suitable for planting, it should be pushed forward 

 without delay. Though trees are planted every month between Octo- 

 ber and April, there is a proper time, and that is before winter fairly 

 sets in. When they are then nicely placed in healthy soil, protected with 

 litter over the roots, and secured against wind, the wood pushes more 

 readily than when planted under the same advantages late in the sea- 

 son ; besides, much other work comes on in spring which cannot be 

 delayed if success is to be expected. Pruning will now require atten- 

 tion, whenever the leaves are off the trees and bushes : the work may 

 be done as early as possible. Apples and Pears grown as dwarf trees 

 may require little done now further than shortening the shoots from 

 the summer cuts. Where shoots have been left to replace old bearing 

 wood, a little tying to keep them in their positions may be necessary. 

 Though handsome trees are not essential to free bearing, yet it is very 



