iSyi.] NOTES ON RHODODENDRONS. 61 



contact with the roots. Along with suitable soil, much depends for 

 the successful cultivation of Rhododendrons upon the selection of a 

 proper situation. Although the great majority of what are termed 

 hardy sorts can bear any amount of frost they are ever subjected to in 

 this country, they should invariably be planted in sheltered situations, 

 as, particularly during the flowering and growing season, they are 

 liable to damage from cold dry winds. When so exposed, their ex- 

 tremely delicate flowers become prematurely blighted, and the tender 

 growths so much injured, as not only to prevent the formation of the 

 buds, but often to cause a second grow^th, which is generally destroyed 

 by autumn frosts. 



Shade and drip from trees should also be avoided ; for while the 

 plants will grow vigorously provided they have sufficient moisture, 

 they require a full exposure to the sun to enable them to ripen their 

 wood sufficiently to withstand the w^inter's frost, and to form flower- 

 buds. Even when they do flower in such circumstances, they develop 

 neither their form nor colour to perfection. In preparing the beds for 

 the compost, the best plan in most cases is to remove the old soil alto- 

 gether, particularly if it is either stiff hard clay or worn out by long crop- 

 ping. It is not requisite that this should be done deeper than one foot, 

 as the tendency of Rhododendron roots is to spread out near the sur- 

 face rather than downward, when the subsoil is stiff and retentive : 

 nothing more is required than to fill in the compost ; but in cases 

 where it is loose and gravelly it is of importance, with a view to pre- 

 vent its absorbing the surface moisture too quickly, that two or three 

 inches of peat or leaf-mould should be forked in, and afterwards beat 

 down firmly. 



Although it is possible to transplant successfully all over the year, 

 not even excepting the flowering and growing seasons, we would re- 

 commend that it should be confined to the autumn and winter months, 

 beginning in October, by which time the buds are developed, and the 

 young wood ripe enough to bear removal without injury. They should 

 never be planted deeper than to allow the top of the ball being covered 

 with about two inches of soil, which should be trod as firmly over and 

 around it as possible. 



In excessively dry summ.ers, such as we had last, a slight mulching 

 with short grass manure, or some similar material, will be found bene- 

 ficial, by preventing evaporation and keeping the roots cool ; while an 

 occasional copious watering during the blooming and growing seasons 

 will contribute largely to the vigour of the growth, and assist mate- 

 rially in the formation of large, sound flower-buds. 



Hugh Feaser. 

 {To he continued.) 



