1873] PEACH CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 2G3 



OLDER VARIETIES. 



These I shall enumerate without much description, all of which may be relied 

 on as being the foremost of quality. Bridesmaid, white ground ; Climax, pale- 

 rose ground ; Admiral, bronze-yellow ground ; Artist, purple ground; Euroim, 

 yellow ground ; Firefly, scarlet and white ; George Gordon, crimson self ; Grand 

 Duke, bronze and crimson ; Hendersonii, well known, striped ; Harlequin, 

 cream-white and rose ; Matildie, rose, mottled purple ; Nina, freckled rose ; 

 Orange Boven, shining crimson, with or9,nge lips. Queen of Crimsons, The 

 Bride, Undine, and Wrestler. A. Kerr. 



PEACH CULTURE UNDER GLASS. 



PRUNING AND TRAINING. 



Many w'ays of training and pruning the Peach and Nectarine have 

 been practised and recommended. French horticulturists especially 

 have been very successful in training them in several ways character- 

 ised by regularity and neatness. The single cordon as well as the 

 multiciple cordon systems are favourite modes of training in Prance. 

 Modifications partaking more or less of the French systems have been 

 practised and recommended especially by Seymour in England. But 

 the ordinary fan system of training is by far the most generally prac- 

 tised and liked. It is, especially under glass, the mode of train- 

 ing which the most successful forcers of the Peach have adopted, and 

 it is that which I recommend. Many grand old examples of Peach- 

 trees under glass are to be found in this country, which have all along 

 been trained on the fan principle, and that are yet in fine bearing 

 condition, being well furnished from top to bottom with young bear- 

 ing wood. Taking a young tree (fig. 11 in May Ko.) which I have 

 recommended for planting as the foundation of a fan-trained [tree, 

 different cultivators who are most in favour of this system of 

 training would deal difi"erently with the ten young growths with 

 which it is furnished. Some would cut them all back again, to within 

 five or six buds of their base ; others would not shorten them at all, 

 but would let them start into growth with as many young shoots 

 as could be tied to the trellis without crowding them. What I have 

 practised and would recommend is a mean between these two 

 systems. The two centre shoots I would shorten back to half their 

 length, the other eight shoots to be merely topped back to solid, 

 well-ripened wood. The cutting somewhat closely back of the two 

 centre ones makes it certain that two or three good strong growths 

 will start from near their base to properly fill up the centre of the 

 tree with leaders. • Each of the other eight shoots should have all 

 its buds removed by degrees, except one near the base, and one 

 or two at equal distances between it and the leading bud, according 



