i873-] FORCING THE ROSE. 253 



Here they will now require very little attention tlirougliout the sum- 

 mer, except watering, and an eye to suckers from the stocks if the 

 Eoses are worked plants. Those known to be well rooted should have 

 weak liquid manure at all times when watered. We sometimes top- 

 dress the whole with sheep's or other dung, as it is useful at a rainy 

 time. When the water-pot is not required, the rain washes the manure 

 into the soil. All flower-buds are picked off the plants as they are 

 formed, and sometimes a few plants may require staking, but not 

 often, unless a strong shoot gets top-heavy, catches the wind, and un- 

 settles the whole plant in its pot. About the end of October we remove 

 the whole to the Peach-cases, where there is abundance of air night 

 and day. Here they are allowed to become comparatively dry at the 

 root, when the foliage will soon begin to turn yellow and fall off, a 

 sign of ripeness of the wood. Water now may be withheld entirely. 

 By the middle of December they may be pruned. This we do to the 

 whole at one time. It is not at all necessary to leave those unpruned 

 which are required later. They will start as required, just as Vines 

 in pots will. The difference in flowering is effected by the time the 

 plants are pruned, but by this time they get introduced into heat. 

 The first lot may be selected and started at once ; the moist mild tem- 

 perature of a peach-house just started suits them well. Here they will 

 have the syringe daily, and for a time plenty of light, and a minimum 

 of fire-heat. If a low span-roof ed forcing-house can be devoted to them, 

 so much the better ; they can be better attended to as regards ventila- 

 tion, and will have the benefit of all the sunshine possible, better than 

 under Vines or Peach-trees. One good soaking of water will be suffi- 

 cient for a time ; the syringe will keep them moist enough until they 

 have developed some foliage. The chief points to be attended to now 

 will be to husband the sun's heat, to ventilate freely when weather 

 will allow, but avoid draughts, which will injure the tender foliage, and 

 induce insects. The object must be to get strong growth ; spindly 

 drawn growth ruins the plants for future use, as well as yielding poor 

 unrecognisable flowers. Fumigate on the least appearance of aphis, 

 and watch for the Rose-grub, which curls up the leaves and eats out the 

 buds. Force slowly with as little fire-heat as possible, the thermometer 

 ranging from 50° to 65°, or 80° with sun-heat. 



The plants must be gradually hardened before removing to a cool 

 house, else the buds may turn yellow and drop off. If the conserva- 

 tory be warm, they will not feel the change, especially if the forcing has 

 not been rapid, and the pots not been plunged in heat. AVater with 

 liquid manure as soon as the buds begin to show, and continue until all 

 the flowers are cut, after which the same routine of ripening and resting 

 and potting begins for another year. The Squire's Garden ee. 



