1873.] FLOWER-GARDEN NOTES. 393 



comparatively, that this could be done easily, leaving just the skeleton of the 

 ball — a thick mat, which had formed at the sides of the pot, and inside nothing 

 but a few strong roots radiating from the stem of the plant to the outside of 

 the ball, where they had congregated and thickened, without the least disposi- 

 tion to turn back and take advantage of the bulk of rich soil they had left 

 behind. I estimated that the roots had availed themselves of about one-third 

 or one-half of the soil in the 12-inch pot, living principally — after they had 

 eaten the strength out of this — upon the nourishment supplied in the waterings. 

 No doubt it was observation of this kind which led to the practice of shifting 

 plants forward by inches, in order that the roots might be compelled to eat 

 their way through in a regular manner ; and there is reason in the practice, 

 though in the case of the l*ine-Apple the many-shift system is not a good 

 one. Still, if by any other practice we could produce the same results it 

 would certainly be advantageous. If a good plant can be grown in a 12-inch 

 pot upon only one-half the diet supplied, it would doubtless be a much better 

 specimen if it could be induced to take it all; and a 10 or 12 inch pot contains 

 no more soil than a strong Pine-plant requires, but it is unable to avail itself of 

 the store under the circiunstances, and it is therefore lost. It is the same 

 with pot- Vines and other plants, but to a less extent, perhaps ; for the Pine has 

 a very bad habit of warping its roots round the sides of the pot, especially 

 when it is potted loosely. It would appear, therefore, that to make the roots 

 occupy the soil in the pot regularly as they progress, they must be obstructed 

 in their passage. Hard potting will do this to a great extent, but it is not 

 entirely effectual in preventing the majority of the roots from establishing 

 themselves at the side of the pot. It seems to me, therefore, that a fair 

 proportion of stones among the soil would effectually bar their direct progress. 

 Round boulders would be too bulky, but flat slaty stones, introduced vertically 

 here and there between the stem and the pot at potting time, would neces- 

 sarily cause the roots to break up into branchlets and seek a more roundabout 

 way to their ultimate destination — utilising, at the same time, the body of soil 

 at their disposal, which they would otherwise have disregarded. 



Supposing we could accomplish the end in view, it seems certain that less- 

 sized pots would do, and two pots of a given size would give better results. 

 I have frequently noticed, as others must have done, that the ball of an old 

 Pine-plant, when squeezed with the foot, would burst its skin, and the contents, 

 soil and bones, scarcely touched with , a root, would fall out in much the same 

 condition as when the plant was first potted, except that the bones in the soil 

 were just in that state in which the roots like to find them for immediate use. 



J. S. 



FLOWER-GARDEN NOTES. 



Notwithstanding all that has been said and argued, with the aid of 

 some reason and a good deal of ridicule, against the prevailing style of 

 flower-gardening by means of masses of colour in flowers and foliage, 

 the fashion seems to be gaining ground rather than falling away. It 

 seems to gather strength from persecution ; it becomes richer in detail 

 and more refined in execution as materials accumulate and improve. 

 Spring-bedding takes the form of massing with the materials whicli 



