i873- 



CALENDAR. 



195 



vice when sown in patches 3 feet apart 

 on rich soil : a position where early- 

 frosts in autumn will not easily reach 

 it should be chosen. Beet may be 

 sown on deep cool soil from second 

 week to end of month or later. Carrots 

 may now be sown. Short-horns may 

 be sown closer in the rows than the larger 

 kinds. The usual means to protect 

 them from the attacks of vermin may be 

 tried ; some use gas-water (some time 

 before the seed is sown), also sprinkle the 

 surface with gas-tar, work lime and soot 

 into the surface ; but we have sometimes 

 tried all these and other remedies and 

 then miserably failed to produce clean 

 roots. Manure is often blamed for 

 causing vermin ; but the finest Carrots 

 for size and cleanness we have ever seen 

 were growu here last season, and we 

 learn that the ground was very heavily 

 manured with rotten dung. The main 

 crop of Celery should now be sown, if 

 not already done. Hand-lights placed 

 on a very gentle hotbed, usiog light 

 rich soil for the seed, answer well. 

 Sow plenty of Brussels Sprouts, Scotch 

 Kale, and Savoys, all kinds of Broccoli, 

 Cabbage, and any other autumn and 

 winter crops. Some kinds of Broccoli, 

 such as "VValcheren, AVhite Cape, and 

 Granger's, may be sown as late as the 

 middle of May, and later in southern 

 localities. Veitch's new autumn Cauli- 

 flower is a usefid acquisition. Salsify, 

 Scorzonera, Rampions, Chicory, and 

 broad-leaved Dandelions may be sown 

 towards the third week of the month 

 and treated like Beet. Spinach Beet, 

 where it is used, may be sown about 

 the end of month. 



Full crops of potatoes may now be got 

 in. Jerusalem Artichokes and Sea- 



kale roots, if not planted, should be 

 got in without delay. Rhubarb which 

 has been forced under cover may be 

 divided and planted in rich soil, 3 feet 

 a])art each way. Sow seed as formerly 

 advised. Seeds of hardy herbs may 

 now be sown, and the herb - ground 

 overhauled. Some may be increased 

 by dividing them. French Beans and 

 Scarlet Runners may be sown in warm 

 positions, but in moderate quantities, 

 till next month; a frame for these 

 crops is of great service. To keep up 

 a supply of French Beans till they are 

 ready for use in the o])en ground, a 

 good breadth may be sown in a frame 

 after the first crop of early Potatoes 

 is lifted. A Mushroom-bed for sum- 

 mer supply may be placed at the back 

 of a wall, and covered with straw or soft 

 hay. Cucumbers for ridges, Vegetable 

 Marrows, and Gherkins may be sown 

 during the month, and grown in warmth 

 till they are good plants ; they may 

 then be carefully hardened to fit them 

 for planting out by the end of j\Iay. 

 More Capsicums, Chilies, and Toma- 

 toes may be sown in heat. Those 

 growing freely may be kept near the 

 glass, and be allowed plenty of air. 

 All vegetables now forcing under 

 glass, such as Potatoes, Carrots, Tur- 

 nips, and Radishes, must have plenty of 

 tepid water. The lights taken oflf 

 during warm showers will do much to 

 help them. Asparagus-seed may now 

 be sown, and roots planted ; rows on 

 raised beds are still generally preferred, 

 and salt may be given to crops in 

 active growth. Get all borders and 

 plots arranged to proper bounds. 



M. T. 



rORCING DEPARTMENT. 



Pines. — If the succession plants 

 that have been shifted in the end of 

 February, and in March, and that 

 have been plunged in beds of ferment- 

 ing material, such as leaves and tan, 

 are dry at the root, let them have a 

 good watering at once. They should 

 get as much as will thoroughly moisten 

 the whole ball. Now that they are 

 rooting into the fresh soil, and the 

 days are brighter, calling for more air, 

 they require more moisture to enable 

 them to compete successfully with the 

 increased demands of light and air 

 upon their system. The atmosphere, 

 too, should now be more moist, in pro- 

 portion as the days are bright. But 



avoid excess of this element either in 

 the soil or air, more especially as the 

 plants are not yet in full tide of growth. 

 With increased sunshine the ferment- 

 ing bed, if made up afresh in spring, is 

 apt to heat over much. Whenever 90° 

 is exceeded, let the pots get a gentle 

 shake to cause an opening by the sides 

 of the pots till the heat declines. Aim 

 at a bottom -heat of from 85° to 90°. 

 Towards the end of the month, the 

 night temperature may range to 70° on 

 mild nights, but be content with 5° 

 less when cold and windy. Take ad- 

 vantage of sunshine by shutting up 

 early in the afternoon, so that as little 

 fire -heat as possible be required in the 



