i873-] THE CHINESE AZALEA. 373 



not their only recommendation, they are most desirable on account of 

 their pliant submission to a course of treatment which can easily 

 insure their always desirable present ^, in full bloom in the conserva- 

 tory or greenhouse for at least eight months of the year. We have 

 for years in succession bloomed our earliest plants by the end of 

 October, and kept up the succession till the end of June. Like 

 Camellias they are acceptable at all times, but like Camellias they 

 always appeared to us to be more delicate in colouring, sweeter, if 

 the term may be applied, in late autumn, winter, and early spring than 

 further on in the summer j and the time that individual plants last in 

 these cool months may be multiplied by three as compared to those 

 that bloom after March. We know of no other plant that charms so 

 much from October to, say Christmas, either as a vase or dinner-table 

 plant, as a well-bloomed small plant of Azalea. 



We purpose detailing somewhat minutely our own practice in secur- 

 ing a succession of blooming Azaleas extending over the time above 

 referred to. 



Propagation. — Although the great majority of the finest and most 

 useful varieties do not do so well on their own roots as when grafted on 

 a few robust varieties which practice has proved best for stocks, it is 

 necessary to raise these stock varieties from cuttings, and the method 

 of striking them shall be briefly described. The old Phoeonicea, 

 Fielders White, and the old White are generally considered excellent 

 stocks. To prepare stocks for grafting, select about the middle of 

 July or any time before that, the required number from plants that 

 have made an early growth, taking them about 2 inches long, and the 

 wood of which is just beginning to change to a brownish hue, and 

 become a little firm. After preparing these cuttings just in the same 

 way as you would a verbena cutting, take a new or clean 8-inch pot, 

 and fill it nearly half full of crocks, over the crocks place a, thin layer 

 of the most fibry part of peat or of sphagnum, then fill the pot to 

 within an inch of the rim with equal parts peat and silver-sand, over 

 this place nearly an inch of pure clean silver-sand, and the pot is then 

 ready for the cuttings. Do not insert the cuttings too thickly ; from 

 thirty to forty in an 8-inch pot is quite sufficient. Plunge the pots to 

 the rim in a mild bottom-heat and water them through a fine rose. 

 If the propagating-house is a well-appointed one, it will not be neces- 

 sary to cover the cuttings with a second casing, such as a bell-glass or 

 hand-glass ; but if circumstances are such that they cannot be placed 

 in a house sufficiently close, let a few pots be put together under a glass 

 case, hand-glass, or large bell-glass, as circumstances dictate. In about 

 three weeks, with the ordinary attention of shading and watering, in a 

 temperature of 70° to 75° at night and a gentle bottom-heat, each cut- 



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