1870.] CULTIVATION OF HARDY FRUITS. 73 



two or three years longer, tied carefully to a stake to the desired 

 height. Those grown for this purpose will require to be planted 

 widerdn the rows than those intended for working as dwarfs. Nur- 

 serymen sometimes use layers, suckers, or cuttings, to work the Cherry 

 on. This is a bad practice, as the trees are never so healthy nor 

 so long-lived as when the stock is raised from seed. As already 

 indicated, known varieties are propagated by budding and grafting 

 on stocks raised for the purpose. Budding is recommended by some 

 as being the surest method of securing success; the bark of the 

 Cherry being so thin that it is a difficult task to insert a graft 

 neatly and securely without injuring the epidermis. Others affirm 

 that trees which have been grafted are far more liable to gum secre- 

 tions than those which have been budded. I can affirm regarding 

 the former point, that, in my experience, budding is most easily per- 

 formed of the two, and the one found most successful. I would, 

 therefore, recommend budding the Cherry. The best time to bud 

 is the end of July, or beginning or middle of August. As a rule, 

 this must be performed when stock and scion or bud are in the 

 best condition. The wood from which the bud is taken must be 

 hard, firm, and comparatively ripe. The bud itself must be plump, 

 firm, and brown, with a nice fresh leaf at its base. If these things 

 be the case, then the budding may be proceeded with, as the bud 

 with a portion of the bark attached will readily part from the wood 

 of the branch. The bud may be inserted in the stock in any of 

 the modes in general use, but the simplest and best, to my idea, 

 is that known as the shield or T budding, already referred tb in 

 connection with the Pear and Apple. Great care should, however, 

 be taken at all times never to bind too tightly, as in the case of 

 the Cherry nothing is more likely to cause gum to exude than band- 

 ages tight enough to mark or cut the bark. Those who may wish 

 to graft Cherries may do so at the usual grafting season in March 

 or the beginning of April. The scion should in every case be taken 

 off in winter — not later than the end of December or beginning of 

 January — and inserted in the ground till required. Mr Thompson, 

 giving his experience on this point, states, "We have seen vigorous 

 shoots with large pith cut off for scions, and stuck in the ground 

 in January ; and though in March, when grafted, the pith was dis- 

 coloured, being of a dark instead of a light colour, yet they all suc- 

 ceeded ; whilst scions cut off and grafted fresh failed to a consider- 

 able extent, although treated with the same care in every other 

 respect." The grafting of the Cherry is performed in a similar way 

 to that already recommended for other fruits. James M'Millan. 



( To he continued.) 



