1870.] THE CULTIVATION OF HARDY FRUITS. 489 



planted. The nearer the surface the Peach and Nectarine are planted 

 the better. It is a common practice — and a good one, especially in 

 wet, cold localities — to spread out the young roots on the surface, and 

 cover them over to the depth of 6 or 8 inches, thus leaving the young 

 tree standing upon a little mound. The stem of the tree should not 

 be nearer to the wall than 5 or 6 inches, thereby giving it ample space 

 to swell and grow without coming in contact with the wall, which is 

 very hurtful to the tree, and also in time gives it an unsightly ap- 

 pearance. If the tree is planted in autumn it would be well to give it, 

 in the first place, a good mulching to prevent evaporation, and after- 

 wards to ward off the frosts of winter from its young and delicate roots. 

 If planting is not done till spring, there will be no need for mulch- 

 ing till the middle or end of April, unless severe frost should 

 succeed the operation; in that case, by every means have it done. If, 

 however, the weather should be genial and warm, the influence of 

 the sun upon the soil will prove of much benefit until such time 

 as its rays become too strong and cause rapid evaporation, after 

 which a good mulching will prove of much benefit. It should, 

 however, be removed early in August, as the young tree will now 

 be established, and will not require it the same as when first 

 planted ; the truth is, it will be beneficial to the tree to have the 

 soil around its roots then exposed to the action of light and air. 



The style of training generally adopted for the Peach and Nectarine 

 is the fan in one or other of its modifications. No other style can 

 well be applied to it, considering the manner of its growth and the 

 way in which its wood and fruit-buds are produced. As indicated in 

 my last paper, some cultivators have attempted a sort of spur style of 

 pruning. Of this I do not approve ; but beyond this there are two 

 other methods of pruning in general practice, either of which in dif- 

 ferent circumstances will be found very good. In both cases the 

 wood intended to be cut is taken entirely away, and no semblance of 

 a spur is allowed to remain. The difference consists in the advocates 

 of the one system leaving the shoot entire, while the advocates of the 

 other remove the point of the shoot left, generally cutting back to the 

 first wood-bud beyond the first fruit-bud upon the shoot. Now in 

 practice the one may be right under certain circumstances, and the 

 other wrong, while if the circumstances were changed the reverse 

 might be the case. My practice has been to adopt both of these me- 

 thods. When the tree is young, healthy, and vigorous, I consider it 

 best to cut the point out of the shoot, always cutting at a good wood- 

 bud in front of the best fruit-buds upon the shoot. If the shoot were 

 left entire upon a tree, such as I have indicated, the sure result 

 would be that the point bud would start first into rapid growth, mak- 



