THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING; — 
14 
Fig—continued. Fig—continued. 
ground. Good drainage is essential, and chalk is one | returned to a similar size. A night temperature of 50deg., 
of the best things to use where it can be procured. An 
open warm position should be selected, as this, and root 
restriction, are important points towards encouraging 
the production of short-jointed, fruit-bearing wood. The 
climate of this country will not admit of more than one 
crop being ripened each year outside, and this is by no 
means a certain one in the majority of instances. During 
severe weather, the stem and branches require pro- 
tection. This is afforded in various ways, some unnail- 
ing and collecting the latter in bundles, and covering 
with a thick coat of straw or mats. Spruce branches, 
fern, thatched hurdles, and canvas, may all be made to 
answer the same purpose. Neither is necessary, as a 
rule, along the South Coast, and should not be applied in 
other places, unless in severe weather, and then they 
should be removed gradually in spring. À 
Mode of Bearing, Pruning, gc. The fruits are pro- 
duced, one or two together, in the axils of the leaves. 
They are formed along the branch, as growth proceeds, 
and, with but few exceptions, come to maturity, if at 
all, on new or recently ripened wood. It will thus be 
understood that the points of the shoots must, as much 
as possible, be protected from frost, and preserved when 
pruning. Growth seldom begins outside before May ; 
the embryo Figs on the wood of the previous year, and 
new shoots for the next year, starting almost simul- 
taneously. Fruits will also be formed along the latter, 
and these constitute the second crop, that ripens in some 
parts of the South of Europe, but in this country the 
summers are too short. Any fruits that are sufficiently 
advanced in early autumn to show the shape of the 
Fig, are of no use; and if these are carefully pinched 
off, other later ones may be formed by the side, that 
remain dormant with those produced nearer the points, 
as before explained, until the tree starts the following 
year. Pruning is not much required, except to keep 
the branches thinned; and a good deal of this, also” 
pinching of the strongest shoots, should be seen to in 
summer, so as to leave only those required for fruiting. 
Too much pruning frequently results in the increase of 
soft, unproductive wood, especially if the roots are in 
anything like rich soil. New shoots should be en- 
couraged from parts near the stem, where they are 
required to replace any that become bare or exceed 
their limits.. Either the horizontal or the fan system 
of training is that usually adopted as being best suited 
for trees having to be grown on walls, or as espaliers. 
Suckers proceed in large quantities from the roots of 
permanent trees; these are sometimes trained about 
15in. apart, and in course’ of time allowed to fruit. 
This plan is not to be recommended, as better wood 
may be obtained from healthy branches. 
Forcing. The Fig will bear, and at all times requires, 
a higher temperature to start it into growth than any 
other fruit-trees usually forced. In gardens where a 
house is not specially devoted to their culture, some plants 
may be successfully fruited in pots, and frequently good 
crops are thus obtained. The supply may also be continued 
for a much longer period from these, by introducing a few 
at a time for forcing, and securing a crop from the wood 
of the previous year. A lean-to house admits of trees 
being grown both on a trellis in front, and on the back 
wall, the front trees being stopped so as to admit sun and 
light to those at the back. The roots of strong-growing 
varieties should be restricted by being pruned or inclosed 
with a narrow wall, as recommended for outside culture. 
The border is best made of loamy soil with a little crushed 
bone and mortar or charred rubbish added, this soil being 
also better suited for pot culture than one with more 
manure. When any repotting is required, it should be 
done when the plants are at rest; and if already in large 
pots, the soil and roots may bo reduced, and the plants 
and arise by day, in mild weather, to 60deg. or 65deg., 
with plenty of moisture, will not be too high for starting; 
and as soon as the leaves are growing, and the days get 
longer, these figures may gradually be raised l10deg. 
higher. Large quantities of water are necessary in summer, 
and it should not be applied at a lower temperature than 
that of the soil in which the roots are growing. Plenty of 
syringing with warm water should also be practised until 
the fruit commences ripening, when a drier atmosphere 
tends to heighten the flavour. Under glass, the Fig ripens 
two crops if the trees are started early, the first being on 
the wood of the previous season, and the second on that 
of the current year. The new shoots should be pinched 
when about Yin. long, to arrest the progress of the 
sap, and encourage the formation and production of fruit 
from the axils of the young leaves. Disbudding may be 
practised with great advantage, as a large number of 
shoots are formed that cannot be allowed sufficient space — 
to develop.’ Figs forced in pots should be plunged, if 
possible, in tan or ina bed of fermenting material, witha | 
bottom-heat temperature of about 65deg. Liquid manure, 
when the fruits are swelling, may be applied to these — 
twice or thrice a week, unless the plants are growing too 
strongly without. As the fruit and leaves ripen, more 
air should be given and water gradually withheld. When 
the leaves are all dropped from trees, either planted out 
or in pots, they must be kept quite cool, and the soil 
only a little moist by occasional waterings, until required 
to start for the next season. 
Sorts. Varieties cultivated in countries where Figs are 
grown in quantities outside, are very numerous, but com- 
paratively few of them have been introduced to our 
gardens. The following selection includes most of the — 
best, and is, practically, large enough for all purposes. — 
NEGRO LARGO and Osporn’s PROLIFIC are good varieties — 
for culture in large pots. The former must be rather — 
severely restricted in space, if planted out, on account — 
of its vigorous growth. Brown TURKEY is, perhaps, 
the best of all for forcing, as it seldom fails to fruit — 
abundantly under proper cultivation, and does not grow — 
too strongly, even when the roots are not in a limited — 
space; it is also one of the best for outside culture 
where Figs succeed. Brunswick and WHITE MAR- 
SEILLES are two of the hardiest varieties in cultivation. 
en, Fruit of medium size, roundish, with flattened cro 
— 
skin green, covered with blue bloom; flesh dark red, thick and 
syrupy. Ripens late. 
Fig, 15. Fias, BLACK BouRJASSOTTE. 
Black Bourjassotte, Fruit medium, with short stalk; skin 
black, covered with a thick bloom; flesh deep red, thick and 
delicious. See Fig. 15. 
Genoa. Fruit oblong, large ; skin dark le, with thick 
bloom ; flesh yellow, sweet and — A hale sort, said to be 
much grown in Provence. 
Black Ischia, or Early Forcing. Fruit medium, roundish- 
obovate ; skin nearly bck when ripe; flesh deep red, richly 
flavoured. Early and prolific. 
Brown Turkey. Fruit large, short, pear-shaped, with a thick 
stalk ; skin brown, with —— a purplish tinge ; flesh tinged 
red in the middle, rich and — me of the best sorts grown 
either for —— or outside culture. It has numerous e 
including Blue Burgundy, Brown Naples, Common Purple, I 
Large Blue, Lee’s Perpetual, Purple, &c. — 
‘Fruit pear-shaped, very large, with s thick 
stalk ; skin greenish-yellow, tinged — ; flesh reddish near 
the middle, —— — and sweet. A distinct variety, 
