— 
AN ENCYCLOPADIA 
OF HORTICULTURE. 113 
Hardy Plants—continuwed. 
after the middle of March, when germination is tolerably 
certain. Forwarding in frames sometimes has advantages ;. 
but it is important that the young plants thus treated be 
fully exposed to light, and not allowed to become drawn 
for want of air. A large proportion of perennials may be 
more readily propagated by division, and this is best per- 
formed early in autumn, or at the commencement of new 
growth in spring. 
Preparation and Planting of Mixed Borders. In the 
preparation of a border for Hardy Plants, it is important 
that the soil be deeply trenched, so far as it will allow, 
the autumn previous to planting. If it is moderately 
rich and heavy, rather than light and sandy, it will be 
all the better, as many of the vigorous-growing species 
require a strong soil. Manure should be added at 
trenching time, to insure its proper incorporation amongst 
the soil; and, if the surface is laid rough for the winter, 
the border will be in good condition for planting early 
the following spring. Herbaceous subjects, in general, are 
not well suited for planting alone in a border. Mixed 
borders should not be less than 10ft. or 12ft. wide, and 
a greater width allows of a better arrangement being 
provided for the taller-growing sorts. Evergreen shrubs, 
planted irregularly according to their height, are advisable 
for permanently furnishing the border in winter, when 
the primary plants have died down, and they also afford 
protection from wind and strong sunshine in summer. The 
object in planting should be to dispose of the different 
colours, varieties, heights, &c., of the material at command, 
so that the whole shall prove equally interesting at all 
seasons, without a frequent repetition of similar effects in 
different parts. A knowledge of the habit, height, time of 
flowering, and other points in connection with the various 
plants employed, will be requisite on the part of the 
cultivator, to enable him to fix proper positions for each, so 
that a gradual rise in the heights is secured, at flowering 
time, from the front line to the back. This cannot always 
be secured during the first season, on account of the nature 
of the soil, and its effect on the growth of different plants; 
but any that are misplaced may be marked, and the error 
remedied the following season. ‘Tall Asters, Delphiniums, 
Helianthus, &c., should be planted near the back; other 
plants, reaching a height of 2ft. to 3ft., placed about the 
middle; and dwarf ones, such as Aubrietias, Iberis, Pinks, 
Saxifrages, &c., near the front margin. Mixed borders may 
be utilised for the cultivation of an endless variety of 
plants in summer. Spring bulbs may be inserted at 
intervals, and allowed to take care of themselves; their 
positions should be marked by sticks or labels, to avoid 
injury being caused when the tops cannot be seen. Vacant 
Spaces may be utilised for seeds of annuals, either hardy or 
tender, and these may be sown where the several heights 
will correspond, at the latter end of March. The general 
keeping of the mixed border consists in frequently tying 
up any tall-growing plants that require it; but only those 
of an erect-growing habit should be thus treated, the 
Stakes not being allowed to exceed the height of the 
plants, and inserted so as to be hidden by the foliage as 
much as possible. In moderately heavy soils, watering 
will not be much required; but, where the ground is light, 
almost any quantity may be applied in summer, The 
usual method of annually digging mixed borders, is not to 
be recommended, as many plants are surface-rooting, and 
are, consequently, much injured by the process: a slight 
forking over, to break the surface, and an addition of 
some leaf soil or light manure, about March, are bene- 
ficial. Sufficient space should be allowed each plant with- 
out overcrowding, and any subjects which spread beyond 
their limits—some of the Asters, for instance—should be 
considerably reduced each year. If alpines are intro- 
duced, they should be kept to the front line, and have 
stones placed round them, to keep the crowns above the 
ground line, and special soil added round their roots, 
Vol. IL. 
Hardy Plants—continued. 
A large number of these interesting dwarf plants may 
be successfully grown in mixed borders, if a little extra 
attention is bestowed on their cultivation, especially in 
raising the crowns somewhat, to prevent their damp- 
ing off. 
Hardy Aquatic and Bog Plants. Numerous beautiful 
Hardy Plants succeed best in a very moist situation, and 
many require entire submersion in water. Where a pond 
or lake exists, advantage should be taken for providing 
some accommodation for them, and planting accordingly; 
or artificial preparation may be made for a limited 
quantity. Bog plants should, in most cases, have their 
crowns kept a little above the surface. They may either 
be planted out, or grown in pans, and plunged. Hardy 
aquatics, such as Aponogeton distachyon, Nuphar advena 
and N. lutea, Nymphea alba and N. odorata, with several 
others, may be planted where there is a considerable space 
and depth of water. Calla palustris, Iris pseudacorus, Ly- 
thrum Salicaria, and Sagittaria sagittifolia, are examples 
of such as succeed near the edge, or in shallow water. 
Amongst others worthy of culture, and which succeed in 
moist, boggy situations, are: Anagallis tenella, Caltha 
palustris and its double form, Droseras, Parnassia palus- 
tris and other species, Primula rosea, Sarracenia pur- 
purea, and Spiræa palmata. ; 
HAREBELL. A name given to Campanula 
rotundifiora and Scilla nutans (which see); also 
spelt Hairbell. 
HARE’S EAR. See Bupleurum. 
HARE’S FOOT. See Ochroma Lagopus. 
HARE’S-FOOT FERN. See Davallia cana- 
riensis. 
HARE’S TAIL. Sec Lagurus ovatus. 
HARICOT. The ripe seeds of Phaseolus vulgaris 
and other species of Phaseolus. 
HARINA. See Wallichia. 
HARONGA (the native name in Madagascar). ORD. 
Hypericinee. A monotypic genus. The species is an 
evergreen stove shrub. It thrives in a compost of sandy 
loam and peat. Propagated by cuttings, made of young 
shoots, and inserted in sand, under a glass, in heat. 
H. madagascariensis (Madagascar). jl, yellow; corymbs 
terminal, very large and branchy. J. elliptic-lanceolate, 
Stem round, branching. A. 10ft. Tropical Africa and Mada 
gascar, 1822, 
HARPAGOPHYTUM (the English name—Grapple 
Plant—translated into Greek). Syn. Uncaria. ORD. 
Pedalinee. This genus comprises about four species of 
procumbent canescent perennial herbs, natives of South 
Africa and Madagascar. Flowers axillary, solitary, shortly 
pedicellate; pedicels glandular at base. Leaves opposite 
or alternate, incised. 
corolla tube pale; limb 
mbent). fl., i 
matifid, with coarsely-incised 
H. procumbens (procu 
parpi — — te, Cape of Good Hope 
+ si ms . je * 
simata ee herb, with | e fruit, beset with long branches 
ith powerful hooked spines; but probably not in cultiva- 
tien in this —— Syn. Unearia procumbens, 
HARPALIUM. Now included under Helianthus 
(which see). > 
/ See Crossandra. 
HARRISONIA. This genus is now included, by 
the authors of the “Genera Plantarum,” under Mars- 
denia (which see). 
HARTOGIA (named in honour of J. Hartog, an early 
Dutch traveller in South Africa and Ceylon), Syn. . 
Schrebera. ORD. Celastrinee. A monotypic genus, The 
species is an ornamental greenhouse evergreen shrub, 
allied to Cassine. It proves hardy in sheltered spots. 
For culture, see Cassine. 
(Cape). fl. yellow; pedicels few-fiowered, axillary, 
drooping. June. l. —— oblong, crenated, smooth, hardy 
stalked. Cape of Good Hope, 1800. A small tree. : 
Q 
