144 
THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, | 
HIGGINSIA. A synonym of Hoffmannia (which 
see). 
HILLIA (named after Sir John Hill, 1716-1775, a 
celebrated botanical author). Syns. Fereiria, Saldanha. 
ORD. Rubiacew. A genus comprising about five species 
of ornamental stove evergreen shrubs, natives of tropical 
America and the West Indian Islands. Flowers white, 
large, terminal, solitary, sub-sessile, bracteate and brac- 
teolate. Leaves opposite, shortly petiolate, fleshy; sti- 
pules intrapetiolar, membranaceous, caducous. For cul- 
ture, see Cinchona. 
long ; corolla te tee BS tar —— — 
2ft. West Indies, &c., 1789. (B. M. 721.) H. tetrandra is an 
allied species. 
HILUM. The scar produced by the separation of a 
seed from its placenta. 
HINDSIA (named after R. Brinsley Hinds, the botanist 
of the “Sulphur” Expedition). Syn. Macrosiphon. ORD. 
Rubiacee. A genus comprising about three species of 
small ornamental stove evergreen shrubs, natives of 
Brazil. Flowers violaceous, rather large, in terminal cymes, 
sessile; pedicels short, bracteolate. Leaves petiolate, 
ovate, or ovate-lanceolate. For culture, see Rondeletia. 
Neea pen —— 
h. 2ft. 1841. (B. M. 3977, under name of Rondeletia longiflora.) 
There is a white-flowered form. 
H. violacea (violet).* M. elegant ultramarine, disposed in clusters 
oo Mais — l. broad-ovate. h. 3ft. 1844. Plant downy. 
HIPPEASTRUM (from hippeus, a knight, and 
astron, a star; referring to the shape of H. equestre). 
Equestrian Star. ORD. Amaryllidee. A genus of up- 
wards of fifty species of tunicated bulbous plants, natives 
Fic. 230. HYBRID HIPPEASTRUMS. 
of tropical and extra-tropical South America. Perianth 
: ———— are = > declinate ; scape fistulose, 
two or many-Howered. In most catalogues, the plants 
described below are classed under Amaryllis. Few 
subjects are more gorgeous and attractive, in winter 
Hippeastrum—continued. 
and spring, than several of the species of Hippeastrum, 
and the numerous beautiful hybrids (see Fig. 230) that 
have been obtained therefrom by the skill and perse- 
vering labours of the hybridist. Some of the flowers 
are of the richest deep crimson and blood-red; others 
are nearly white, or are striped, mottled, and blended, 
in a most effective manner, with a combination of 
colours. Distinct species and hybrids have been crossed 
and intercrossed, until breadth of petal, size, substance, 
and perfect form of flowers, have been attained far 
beyond the most sanguine expectations of the hybridisers 
themselves. When once established, and of sufficient size, 
the flowering of the bulbs annually is almost certain ; 
they do not require much space, and their general culture 
is easy. Propagation is readily effected by seeds for 
raising new varieties, and this method is also largely 
practised for producing bulbs to flower for ordinary de- 
coration. Named species or varieties are perpetuated 
by offsets, which spring up from the base of established 
bulbs. 
Seeds should be sown, as soon as ripe, in well-drained 
pots or pans of sandy loam, slightly covered, and pldced 
in a temperature of about 65deg. When the seedlings 
are large enough to handle, pot off into very small pots, 
taking care not to insert too deeply, and afterwards plunge 
in bottom heat. If kept ina moist atmosphere, with a 
temperature ranging from 60deg. to 70deg., the young 
plants make rapid progress. 
Offsets. For increasing by offsets, it is necessary to 
take the old bulbs from the pots, and carefully separate 
with the least possible injury to the roots. The latter 
become much interlaced, and do not like disturbance; 
consequently, it should not be resorted to more than is 
requisite. It is best to leave them until several offsets 
are formed, as the latter increase in size faster when 
attached to the parent plant, and the necessity of fre- 
quently disturbing the roots is avoided. The operation 
should be performed when the plants are at-rest. Offsets 
should be placed singly in pots, but must on no account 
be overpotted, as they do not succeed in a quantity of 
soil, which is liable to become soured before being 
penetrated with roots. Keep the bulb about two-thirds 
above the level of the soil, dispose the roots evenly, and 
afterwards plunge in bottom heat, in a position exposed 
to light. 
Cultivation. Hippeastrums are more or less ever- 
green, and, although they require a season of rest, water 
should never be entirely withheld. The growing season 
is from early spring, after flowering is over, until about 
September, when the plants should be kept cool and 
allowed to rest until February. They may then be 
placed in a minimum temperature of about 60deg., and 
more water and syringings applied. If the bulbs are 
large enough, and have been well matured, the flower 
scapes will soon appear, usually a little in advance of 
the leaves. Young bulbs should be repotted, if they 
require it, just when starting, shaking out some of the 
old soil, well filling in the new amongst the roots, and 
making it quite firm with a hand rammer. Established 
flowering bulbs in 7in., or larger pots in the case of 
extra-sized specimens, should have a top-dressing each 
year when starting; this being generally sufficient for 
them, with the aid of manure water in the growing 
season. Rather heavy, loamy soil should be used, with 
the addition of some charcoal and crushed bones, and 
good drainage is very important. Hippeastrums require 
plenty of light and sunshine, except during the flowering 
period, when a light shading will tend to preserve the 
blossoms. In some large nurseries, special houses are 
now devoted to their accommodation. They are made 
with a span-roof, thus insuring plenty of light. The 
pots are plunged level in beds of tan or cocoanut fibre, 
and a magnificent display is made by the plants when 
