> 
THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 
Holeus—continued. 
the intermediate spaces and margin of a clear silvery-white. 
T — variegated perennial plant, forming a very 
neat tuft. i 5 
HOLLY. See Ilex, 
HOLLYHOCK (Althea rosea). The Hollyhock is a 
very. old inhabitant of our gardens, and, where it suc- 
ceeds, is one of the finest autumnal flowers for the 
decoration of our gardens and shrubberies. Of recent 
years, the Hollyhock disease has played such havoc 
amongst the plants, that their cultivation has become a 
FiG. 238. FLOWERING STEM OF HOLLYHOCK. 
matter of extreme uncertainty, and las, consequentl 
been somewhat neglected. At one time, not ra awd 
the Hollyhock was considered an important florists’ and 
exhibition flower, splendid double varieties having been 
_ selected and raised by some few hybridisers, who devoted 
special attention to its improvement. Propagation is 
effected by seeds, by cuttings, and by divisions ; also 
saved from the finest sorts, and í 
3 d sown, so soon as ripe, 
being placed in a slight bottom heat, 
Hollyhock—continued. ; 
or in the open air, in June or July. The seedlings 
should be transferred, in either case, when large enough, 
into 8in. pots, and wintered in a cold frame. This 
method is adopted to obtain new varieties, and for 
securing a large number of plants for ordinary deco- 
ration. The usual mode of propagation is by cuttings, 
about 3in. long, consisting of young shoots, which may be 
taken off close to the old root, at nearly any time of 
the year. They should be placed singly in small pots 
of light sandy soil, and kept close and shaded in a cold 
frame until roots are emitted. If propagation by cut- 
tings is practised in winter, a gentle bottom heat should 
be given them. Division of the roots may be effected, 
after flowering is over, by separating the crown, so as 
to preserve one or more buds, and as many roots as 
possible, to each piece. Cuttings are generally preferred 
to divisions, but either plan will answer. 
Outdoor Cultivation. Hollyhocks succeed—if they are 
not attacked by the disease—in almost any good garden 
soil. If in any way poor, it should be previously well 
trenched and manured, or strong spikes will not be 
obtained. The young plants should be wintered near the 
glass in cold frames, admitting plenty of air and giying 
only a little water. They must not be allowed to become 
starved for want of root-room when young. Gradually 
harden off in March, and plant out, about the middle of 
April, where they are intended to flower. A few for 
late flowering may be planted a month later. Space of 
about 3ft. every way will not be too much between the 
plants. They should be protected on cold nights until 
established, and be supplied with plenty of water 
throughout the summer. A top-dressing of well-decayed 
manure is beneficial when the flower-spikes are pushing 
up. Strong plants may be allowed two or three spikes, 
but the weaker kinds should be reduced to one by re- 
moving all the other side growths when young. A stiff 
stake will be requisite for each plant, and it should be 
inserted before injury is caused by rough wind. In a 
sunny position and good soil, Hollyhocks reach a height 
of 8ft. or 10ft., and flower from about 3ft. above the 
ground nearly to the points (see Fig. 238). After 
flowering is over, the spikes should be cut down to 
about 6in. from the base; and if the varieties are choice, 
they should be lifted before winter, and stored, like 
seedlings, &c., in frames. Where the soil is tolerably- 
dry, and the winter not very severe, Hollyhocks keep 
all right in the open ground. Small pieces of choice 
sorts may also be grafted on roots obtained from vigorous 
seedlings. ‘ 
Varieties. Good collections of Hollyhocks still exist, 
and, in some places, are successfully cultivated. Should 
the disease diminish its attacks, and allow of named 
varieties (of which the following is a good selection) 
being again generally grown, no doubt they will re- 
ceive the attention.they merit, both for general decora- 
tion and for exhibition. Seedlings, from good varieties, 
are much cultivated, and frequently answer their pur- 
pose equally as well as named sorts. 
ACME (Chater), peach-colour, extra fine; ALBA SUPERBA, pure 
— fine spike; BLACK GEM, glossy blackish-maroon, good ; 
JARUS CHATER, reddish-crimson, very fine; COMPETITOR, deep 
rich purple, extra ; CONQUEST, dark crimson; CONSTANCE, deli- 
— pale flesh, with a dark base; CYGNET, pure white, large 
flowers and good spike;,DEcIsion, puce, long close spike; 
DUCHESS, rosy-peach, good ; EARL OF BREADALBANE, light red, 
ne full flower; ECLIPSE, bright rosy-red, extra fine ; ELEANOR, 
— pale rose, good ; EMPEROR, dark crimson-maroon ; GOLDEN 
ROP, bright deep yellow, large flower; JAMES MACDONALD, 
n -red, fine spike ; JESSIE DEAN, clear dark amber; JOSHUA 
— bright cherry, tine ; LADY MIDDLETON, purple, very large 
ower; LILAC PERFECTION, pale lilac, good ; MARVELLOUS, ei 
orange-buff, full; Miss ASHLEY, rose, fine spike; MODEL, ligh 
crimson ; . CHATER, amber, tinged with crimson, full flower ; 
Mrs. EDWARDS, pure salmon, extra; Mrs. ELLIOTT, white, 
shaded and tinged lilac; NELSON, light purple, large flower; 
AVIA, rose-pink, very fine; PERFECTION, white, suffused 
on ; PRINCESS, white, s salmon, large and 
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