* 
AN ENCYCLOPAEDIA OF HORTICULTURE. 
159 
Hyacinthus— continued. 
quantities. Hyacinths should be grown in pots for 
forcing and for exhibition; the single varieties succeed 
well in glasses of water, and are ornamental thus treated 
_ for room decoration. For a spring display in the open 
ground, Hyacinths are unexcelled, especially when arranged 
in flower beds, or anywhere in a mass. 
The Roman Hyacinth. The early Roman Hyacinth is 
an extremely useful variety, with pure white flowers that 
may be had by November, as the bulbs arrive much earlier 
than those of the large-flowering sorts. Place three or 
four in a 5in. pot, just covering them with soil; afterwards 
water, and cover the whole up outside with about Gin. of 
ashes. When the pots become filled with roots, they 
should be taken into heat, and growth in the tops en- 
couraged by frequent syringings. Some growers of this 
variety on a large scale, force the bulbs in boxes, and pot 
up just before coming into flower. This root disturbance 
does not injure the flowers much, when they are nearly 
fully developed; and the bulbs, so severely forced, are 
not of much further use. It is well to keep a portion 
of the stock for potting, along with the large- flowering 
sorts, as the early Roman is always much appreciated, and 
is far more useful for cutting, and for any decoration in 
winter. 
Culture in Pots. Hyacinth bulbs should be secured as 
soon as possible after they arrive in autumn. The large- 
flowered varieties, which usually come over in September, 
should be potted singly in 5in. or 6in. pots, according 
to the size of bulb, and be covered with ashes in the 
same way as described above for the early Roman. The 
chief use of ashes is to keep the bulbs from rising when 
their new roots come in contact with the soil. A good 
potting compost is fibry loam and manure in about equal 
parts, with some river sand intermixed. The pots should 
be filled lightly, and the bulb pressed into the soil, so 
- that its base is firmly fixed. This plan is much better 
than partially filling the pot and afterwards covering the 
bulb. Before subjecting any plants to heat, they should 
be well rooted, and the crowns just beginning to expand. 
The large-flowered varieties may be had in flower by the 
end of December, if they are potted early and carefully 
forced. Where a succession is the principal aim, rather 
than a large quantity at one time, it is best to divide 
the number of bulbs, and pot at intervals of about six 
weeks from August till the end of November. In winter, 
forcing should be conducted in a structure where all 
possible light is admitted; but, later in spring, any warm 
house will do, if not kept too much shaded. In March 
and April, the principal stock should be retarded, by 
placing them in a house or pit with a north aspect. 
Plenty of water should always be applied, and manure 
water is beneficial after the flower-spikes appear. 
Culture in Glasses. Single varieties of Hyacinths are 
better adapted for culture in glasses than double ones. 
Special glasses are made, so that the bulb need not be- 
come submerged-in the water. Soft rain-water should be 
used for filling them, a little charcoal placed in it, and 
some of the best bulbs selected. They should be inserted 
in moss, so that the base is just in contact with the 
water, and be then kept in a cool, dark place, until roots 
are emitted. A little additional water occasionally, and 
a light position, will be all they afterwards require until 
wering. 
Outside Culture. Hyacinths grown in the open ground 
need not be so large or choice as those cultivated under 
glass. They succeed best in light soil and in a sunny 
position. If the latter has been occupied by other plants 
throughout the summer, some manure should be added, 
and the soil well dug, before’ planting in October. For 
Securing a display in flower beds in spring, the bulbs 
should be inserted about Qin. apart and 3in. deep, care- 
being taken to place them all at an equal depth. They 
should be protected, if the weather is severe, especially 
Hyacinthus—continued. 
after the flower-shoots appear. If a covering of new 
cocoa-nut fibre is placed all over the bed before any of 
the flowers expand, it tends to heighten the effect they 
produce, and preserves them from being splashed by heavy 
storms. The bulbs, if left alone to ripen, or if lifted and 
dried slowly, may be used another year; but they generally 
deteriorate, and are not so good as others fresh imported. 
Any that are forced in pots are of little use afterwards, 
except for planting in mixed or shrubbery borders outside. 
Neat stakes are requisite for many varieties, to prevent 
the flowers being broken off by their own weight. The 
quality of Hyacinth bulbs for any purpose is a fatter 
of material importance. Mere size is no eritérion of 
quality, soundness and density being the chief points, If 
the bulbs are hard and heavy, in proportion to their size, 
the production of good flowers may be confidently ex- 
pected. 
amethystinus (amethystine-blue).* 7 
— blue drooping, unilateral or Cady Oates moe — 
to twelve-flowered ; racts length of the pedicels. Spring. l 
narrow, linear, as long as, or longer than, the flower-scape. A, 
4in. to 12in. South Europe, 1759. (B. M. 2425.) : 
H. candicans (white). A synonym of Galtonia candicans. 
H. corymbosus (corymbose),* jl., perianth lilac-rose, $ 
segments —— sing call y clustered, Sonera ty rakes L 
8 
Fic 248, HYACINTHUS ORIENTALIS, 
