AN ENCYCLOPZEDIA 
OF HORTICULTURE. 821 
Chrysanthemum—continued. 
practice involves no waste of either time or space. Which- 
ever plan is adopted, the plants should be placed near the 
glass, and shifted on successively as they require, when the 
roots reach the side of the ball. The final shift should be 
given not later than the middle of July; for although it is 
most important to keep the roots in full vigour during the 
early stages of growth, it is equally or more so that they 
should fill the pots with roots before the flowering season 
arrives. In hot, dry places, an eastern or western aspect 
suits Chrysanthemums better than a southern one for 
summer quarters; but in colder neighbourhoods, a position 
facing south would be more suitable. Partial shade from 
the mid-day sun is desirable. The pots should be plunged to 
the rim, taking care to provide free egress for the water 
under them. Chrysanthemums require enormous quantities 
of water, though few plants sooner show the injurious 
effects of sour or waterlogged soil. The surface of the 
pots should also be mulched over, as a protection to the 
roots against excessive heat and drought, and also as a 
means of increasing the supply of nutriment. During bright 
weather, the plants may need watering three or four times 
a day, and must on no account be allowed to flag for want 
of it. In good soil, they seldom need much manure water 
until September, and then that made from cow or sheep 
dung is the best. 
Soil. This can scarcely be too rich when the plants are 
strong and placed in the flowering pots. Good loam, heavy 
rather than light, should be used in about equal portions 
with rotten manure, including some cow dung. A little 
soot intermixed with this tends to give the leaves a dark 
green colour, and materially assists them. Crushed bones 
are sometimes used for drainage, with a large crock over 
the hole. These last a long time, and afford some nourish- 
ment to the plants as well; but where not obtainable, a 
few more crocks should be added instead. Pots of 9in. in 
diameter are of sufficient size to grow large plants, if the 
latter are well watered, and fed with liquid manure after 
the flowers are set. It is much preferable to adopt this 
plan than to use larger pots without feeding the plants, 
as the soil becomes exhausted in large pots before the time 
when the greatest nourishment is required. Useful deco- 
rative subjects may be obtained in 48-sized pots if cuttings 
are put in about the beginning of August, five or six in 
each, and are not afterwards pinched. The soil should be 
"used as rough as possible, without sifting, and the plants 
potted firmly by means of hand rammers. Less manure 
should be given when the plants are young and are being 
grown on in small pots. i 
Training will greatly depend on the size or descrip- 
tion of plant required. Standard specimens should be 
grown to the desired height before being stopped; while 
those intended for bush specimens should be pinched 
evenly, occasionally removing the points of all shoots as 
they grow. This must not be practised after the middle of 
July. The flowers also need thinning; and persons who 
grow for exhibition sometimes thin off all buds, except the 
terminal one on the shoot. By thus concentrating most 
or all the force of the plant into its terminal flowers, 
these may be grown to a very large size. Chrysanthe- 
mums readily conform to any style of training. They 
develop naturally into a dense bush; or may readily be 
grown into standards, from 3ft. to 9ft. high. For exhibi- 
tion, they are sometimes severely trained, by the aid of 
в, stakes, and ties, into flat or hemispherical speci- 
mens, with the flowers laid flat on a level surface of 
foliage. The shoots, being fairly flexible, can be trained, 
when young, in any form desired. The Pompones yield 
most readily to flat or level training; while the Japanese 
are most untractable. All staking and training should be 
completed some weeks before the flowers appear, so that 
the latter may have time to readjust themselves before 
. Opening, and look more natural 
Housing and Flowering. All Chrysanthemums intended 
Chrysanthemum—continued. 
for flowering indoors should be under glass, in the autumn, 
before the appearance of frost. During mild weather, 
afterwards, they cannot be kept too open or cool; nor can 
the transition from the outside to the house be made too 
gradual and easy. Any sudden change of temperature or 
condition causes the leaves to become yellow; and this not 
only disfigures, but weakens the plants and flowers. While 
Chrysanthemums must never be stinted for water, less 
will be needed when in flower than when in full growth. 
They will do well in a cool greenhouse, conservatory, or 
window garden. Some cultivators arrange them against 
walls, where they are simply placed according to their 
height, with a temporary glass case over them; and this 
mode shows off the flowers remarkably well. When placed 
so that the merits and form of each plant may be seen, 
Chrysanthemums are most effective. After flowering, the 
plants may be cut down to within біп. of the ground, and 
wintered in а cold frame, or other frost-proof quarters. 
Some growers, however, merely take cuttings off, and 
throw the old plants away; others keep the younger 
plants, and grow them into larger specimens the next 
year; while many plant them out in the open borders, 
or against walls, to take their chance of flowering, should 
season or locality prove favourable. 
Outdoor Culture. As an autumnal flowering plant, 
success would be much more general were Chrysanthe- 
mums specially cultivated for this purpose. When they 
are as carefully grown in the open as in pots, they often 
flower almost equally well. Good results are frequently 
obtained by keeping them in a very open place throughout 
the summer, at distances of 2ft. or 3ft. apart, freely exposed 
to the sun and air all round; and then, towards the end 
of September, lifting carefully and potting them, keeping 
close, and shaded for a time afterwards. 
C. argenteum (silver-leaved).* /l.-heads white. July. l. bipinnate 
hoary; leaflets acute, entire. Stem one-head i à lft 
Levant, 1731. Hardy herbaceous perennial. не 
Fic. 441. CHRYSANTHEMUM CARINATUM. 
