AN ENCYCLOPADIA 
OF HORTICULTURE. 4.29 
Shepherdia— continued. 
S. canadensis, tapering at base, silvery on both sides. 
shrub or small tree. 1820 
S. canadensis (Canadian). fl. yellowish, covered with rusty 
scales. May. fr. yellowish-red, insipid. ¿. elliptic or ovate, 
nearly naked and green above, beneath silvery-downy and scurfy 
with rusty scales. A. 3ft. to 6ft. 1759. 
SHEPHERD'S CLUB. Sce Verbascum Thapsus. 
SHEPHERD'S KNOT. A common name for Poten- 
tilla Tormentilla. 
Tall 
SHIELD-BUDDING. See Budding. 
SHIELD FLOWER. The popular name for Aspi- 
distra. ; 
SHIELD-SHAPED. Round or oval and fiat, with 
a stalk attached to the lower surface. See Clypeate, 
Peltate, and Scutate. 
SHINGLE OAK. See Quercus imbricaria. 
SHOEBLACK-PLANT, or SHOE FLOWER. 
A common name for Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. 
SHOLA OR SOLAH PLANT. A common name 
for Aschynomene aspera. 
SHOOTING STAR. 
catheon Meadia. 
SHOT, INDIAN. See Canna. 
SHOVELS. There are several sorts of these, all of 
which are found useful in gardens. Shovels are lighter 
than spades, and better adapted for shifting light soil, 
short. loose manure, sand, gravel, &c. Square-topped 
Shovels, having their two side edges slightly turned up, 
are most generally useful; those with a somewhat shield- 
shaped point are well adapted for shovelling gravel and 
stones. Stoke-hole Shovels should be made chiefly or 
entirely of iron, in order that they may withstand the 
heat to which they become subjected in stoking. The 
pan is best made long, and not very wide, as, when 
charged with coke, it may then be readily emptied into 
the furnace without coming into contact with the front, 
which is often very limited in width. 
SHRIVELLING. A condition met with in im- 
mature fruit on plants growing in unfavourable con- 
ditions. The fruits, after being properly set, so far as 
can be judged from their appearance, begin to wither, 
and finally shrivel and fall off without ripening, so 
that the yield of fruit is frequently much lessened. 
The cause of this condition seems to be deficiency in 
the supply of water to the fruit, which usually shows 
no evidence of any disease due to parasitic Fungi 
or insects. Shrivelling is quite distinct from the fall of 
the fruit known as ‘ Windfalls.” This latter results from 
the presence in the fruit of insects, which eat the seeds 
and cause premature and imperfect ripening, with early 
separation from the plant. Such “ Windfalls,’ on being 
eut open, will show clear traces of the cause of injury 
in the interior, round the seeds. The deficiency of: water 
to which Shrivelling is ascribed may result from various 
causes: one of the most frequent is dryness of the 
soil or of the atmosphere, which causes evaporation 
from the green parts at a more rapid rate than that at 
which the roots can supply the fluid. Another cause of 
‘such deficiency is thé luxuriant growth of leafy shoots 
on plants in sheltered, warm situations : evaporation 
goes on from them in excess of the power of the roots 
to supply the full amount needed by leaves and fruits. 
Poor soil and insufficient nourishment have been suggested 
as causes. 
Remedies must be selected according to the cause, 
which must first be carefully sought out. If the soil 
is poor, manure should be supplied; if it is too dry, it 
must be watered. Any excess in green shoots must be 
pruned away. Ringing the fruiting branches—i.e., the 
removal of a narrow ring of bark from their bases—has 
A common name for Dode- 
paanan 
Shrivelling—continued. 
been found very useful in diminishing the loss by 
Shrivelling; it tends, besides, to improve the quality of 
the fruit, and hastens the period of ripening. It acts 
by preventing the passage downwards, through the bark, 
of the food formed in the leaves of the branch, so that all 
the food is retained for the nourishment of the products 
of the branch itself. This method is applicable only to 
Dicotyledons with a distinct bark; but these include 
all the fruit-bearing plants of the colder temperate regions. 
Some plants bear the operation well; but, in general, 
it should only be performed as a last resort, as the 
branches are apt to die above the ring, or to snap off at it, 
and the parts below the ring do not get enough nourish- 
ment, owing to the obstacle interposed by it to the 
descent of the elaborated sap. The roots, too, suffer if 
many branches are ringed, and the whole plant is thus 
weakened and may die from the effects. There is also 
danger of parasitic Fungi or insects obtaining entrance 
into the tissues before the wound produced by ringing 
the branch has been properly healed. 
SHRUB. A low, woody-stemmed perennial. 
SHRUBBERIES AND SHRUBS. The term 
Shrubbery is usually applied to a plantation of Shrubs, 
although many other plants not strictly of a shrubby | 
nature may be intermixed. Shrubs are divided into two 
great classes, deciduous and evergreen; both are very 
largely represented in gardens, but, unfortunately, with 
some few exceptions, they do not generally receive the 
attention which they deserve. In the embellishment 
of flower-gardens and pleasure-grounds, Shrubs play a most 
important part ; indeed, take these away, and more than 
half the beauty is gone. Some are best planted in large 
clumps by themselves — Rhododendrons, for instance — 
although such clumps may be associated with others where 
any kind of grouping is attempted, or an American garden 
laid out. 
A point of great importance which, it is to be feared, 
is too often overlooked, is that Shrubs which have 
annually to perfect their wood for flowering—be they — 
deciduous or evergreen—should not be planted under © 
the shade of trees: they need an open situation, and 
plenty of light, if proper development is to be attained. 
There are some evergreen subjects that do well under 
trees, but they are extremely few compared with 
those which fail to thrive under such conditions. Forest- 
trees should not be admitted permanently into a Shrub- 
bery: if planted there when young, it should be with a 
view to subsequent removal. ‘Trees may, however, be- 
utilised to form a background if they are sufficiently far — 
away to prevent their roots from robbing the soil. Mixed _ 
Shrubberies are generally arranged and planted with a 
view to producing an effect throughout the summer; but by 
making a suitable selection, and arranging with judgment, 
they may be rendered attractive, either in flower or foliage, 
throughout the whole year. As a boundary or screen 
dividing cultivated from wild grounds, or as a background 
for a mixed border in flower-gardens, evergreen Shrubs 
are unsurpassed. ‘American Shrubs, when they can be 
obtained in quantity, are best planted in beds by them- 
selves, or plants of very dwarf stature may appropriately 
form an edging for others which do not exceed some 
3ft. or 4ft. in height. 
An endless variety of subjects, both evergreen and 
deciduous, may be accommodated in a mixed Shrub- 
bery of only moderate extent, but the planting should 
only be entrusted to persons having a knowledge of 
~ the different habits and dimensions which are likely 
to be attained. For instance, the front line should be 
restricted to plants that habitually remain compact, 
and do not grow tall, while the back part may be filled 
with such specimens as are of the opposite description. 
The centre space will then accommodate others of medium 
stature, and the eye will gradually pass from front to : 
