ko THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 
Strawberry—continued. 
plants are never certain to succeed. It may best be 
done, if requisite, in early autumn, or just before growth 
commences in spring. 3 
Runners afford the best and most general method of 
propagation. They readily root into the ground, unless it 
is very hard, and may be lifted with balls and replanted ; 
but a better way is that of layering in small pots of 
loamy soil, and allowing them to root into it. Runners 
are entirely supported by the parent until they form 
roots of their own; this they do readily, when coming 
in contact with soil that is of a proper description 
regarding moisture, &c. If pots cannot be spared, run- 
ners for planting-out may be procured, well rooted, and 
in good condition for lifting, by loosening the earth and 
placing some light, leafy soil beneath them, just when 
the roots begin forming. The method of layering on 
pots will be further mentioned in relation to the 
methods of preparing plants for forcing. 
Soil, Planting, 4c. Strawberries grow very well in 
almost any good garden ground, but succeed best in 
rather strong loam, of a good depth, and in a somewhat 
moist situation. In a dry summer, the crop frequently 
proves a failure on plants subjected to a light soil or 
gravelly sub-soil, as, if flagging is once allowed, the 
fruits seldom ripen properly. Previous to planting, the 
ground should be well trenched, and plenty of good 
manure intermixed. Very stiff soils are not suitable, 
_as they are so liable to cake into hard lumps, which crack 
= open during dry weather. Stiff soils may be much im- 
proved by adding rotten leaves, peat, or leaf mould, 
during the trenching process. 
Planting is best performed about the middle of August, 
or so soon as well-rooted runners can be secured. Some 
persons layer Strawberries very successfully for planting 
purposes on small pieces of turf of square or triangular 
shape, lin. or more thick: the roots do not then become 
twisted and interlaced, as they do in pots, and a piece 
of turf is admirably adapted for them to enter and per- 
meate. The turf may be sunk a little into the ground, 
and kept watered; in planting, they should be 
be carefully lifted with a "rowel. It is not always con- 
venient to prepare land for Strawberries at the season 
above named; but it is of great importance that the 
young plants should be put into their permanent quarters 
early, and receive every encouragement to get them 
established before winter. That showery weather should 
be selected, if possible, need scarcely be remarked. Land 
which has been occupied by early Potatoes or Cauliflowers 
is not unfrequently in good order for pianting with 
_ Strawberries without any preparation beyond levelling 
: down, providing the soil is sufficiently heavy, and the 
situation can be spared. Strawberry-plants that have 
been forced are available for forming an outside planta- 
tion when the fruit has been gathered; but the balls 
should be thoroughly soaked in water, and the leaves 
dipped in a soft-soap solution if they are infested with 
Red Spider—which is sometimes hurtful to such plants— 
before being put into the ground. When planting Straw- 
berries, the soil, which should be moderately moist, 
must be rendered quite firm about their roots. Should 
the weather be dry, watering must be attended to 
until the plants are thoroughly established; they will 
need but little further attention for the season. The | 
distance at which to plant varies a little, according 
to the strength of soil and the varieties, Generally, 
the rows should be from 2ft. to 2}ft. apart, and the 
plants about 1}ft. asunder in the rows; but small- 
fruited varieties (Black Prince and the Alpines, for | 
instance) may be planted much closer together. The 
soil should never be dug between Strawberry-plants, as 
there are so many roots near the surface, which would 
be destroyed. Large weeds may be pulled occasionally 
by the hand and carried away, to prevent seeds dropping. 
Strawberry—continued. 
Strawberry plantations should be partially renewed every 
year, as young plants produce larger, and in every way 
superior, fruit to old ones. Three, or at the most four, 
years is a limit; when plants have been in one situation 
for this period, it is best to destroy them, provided others 
are coming on for a succession. The general treatment 
of Strawberries outside may be briefly summed up: To 
keep the fruit clean, the spaces between all fruiting 
plants should be mulched with short straw or light, clean 
litter, in May or June, just before the flowers open. For 
providing nourishment to the roots, a mulching of short, 
rotten manure may be spread over the surface first, and 
then the straw above. If runners are not required, they 
should be cut off at intervals, soon after being formed, 
unless the parents are disposed to grow too strongly to 
leaf, when some of the earliest may be left. At the 
latter part of summer, and early in autumn, considerable 
growth is made, and another mulching of good manure 
is generally of great advantage. A full crop must not 
be expected the following year from young plants; but, 
if they are put in early, a few nice fruits are generally 
produced, and also excellent runners for layering to 
force. Strawberries two and three years old bear the 
heaviest crops of good fruits. Watering is sometimes 
a necessity when the fruits are swelling, if droughts 
prevail or the soil is too light. A good soaking should 
be administered; a little on the surface is useless. A 
mulching of manure beneath the straw, as referred to 
above, helps to keep the ground cool in summer, and 
prevents, to a great extent, undue evaporation. 
Forcing. Before successful forcing of Strawberries 
can be carried out, it is necessary that strong and well- 
ripened plants be prepared; this latter subject may, 
therefore, be referred to at the commencement. So soon 
as any runners appear, and forcing is intended, layering 
should be at once commenced. Perhaps the plan most 
generally adopted is that of layering first on small pots, 
and then transferring to the sizes in which the plants 
are intended to bear afterwards. This system is widely 
practised, more generally, perhaps, than any other; but 
that here recommended is to layer, whenever practicable, 
on the fruiting pots in the first instance. This entails 
more labour at the outset, but the necessity for a second 
potting is avoided. Both methods may be referred to, 
as some cultivators favour one and some the other. 
For layering on small pots, the size known as 60s 
are best adapted. They should be washed clean, 
and then allowed to get dry; no crocks need be used, 
a little rough fibre from the loam placed in the bottom 
will afford ample drainage, the remainder being filled 
with loamy soil, pressed moderately firm. Strawberries 
for forcing should always be raised from the strongest 
runners procurable; these are invariably borne earliest 
in the season, and by plants one or two years old. A 
single plant is quite sufficient for one pot; it should be 
placed in the centre, just as roots are forming, and made 
secure by a peg, the runner being then pinched off just 
beyond the plant that is layered. Pegs made from 
stems of common Brake Fern answer well, as they are 
not required to last long. The runners take root quickly 
if the soil is kept moist, and soon become sufficiently 
established for detaching from the parent, and taking 
away previous to potting on for fruiting. It is im- 
portant to leave them until well rooted; the check 
consequent on throwing the plant on its own resources 
in this respect, is then but little felt; whereas, if there 
are only a few short roots formed, the leaves often flag, 
and the plants are slow in recovering strength. 
The customary method of proceeding with Strawberries 
layered on small pots is as follows: When strong roots 
have fairly permeated the soil, the plants are cut off, 
taken away, and either stood in some open situation for 
a few days previous to potting, or potted on at once. 
a ee Te TE 
