AN ENCYCLOPADIA 
OF HORTICULTURE, 511 
Strawberry—continued. 
The pots most generally used are of the size known as 
32s, which measure about 6in. in diameter. These should 
be clean, dry, and well drained; a little rough turf is also 
recommended for placing over the drainage, and, if a 
sprinkling of dry soot is shaken amongst this, it will 
materially aid in keeping out large worms, which often 
enter at the bottom if they have an opportunity. 
The best soil for Strawberries in pots is turfy loam, 
somewhat heavy rather than light, used to the extent 
of about two-thirds of a compost, the remainder being 
good, short manure, such as leaf mould, or horse-droppings 
which have laid for a time, or well-rotted cow-dung. 
Some cultivators use bone-meal or crushed bones, in 
preference to other manures, with excellent results. The 
compost should be suitably moist for ramming firmly 
with a hand-rammer; and it is important that none 
of the plants are dry at the time of potting. Stand 
them in a shady place for a few days, unless the weather 
happens to be dull, and afterwards place them in an 
open situation with full exposure to the sun, on a firm 
bottom, such as gravel or coal ashes, which allows water 
to pass away, and also keeps worms from entering the 
pots. As the plants grow, they must be stood wider 
apart, always allowing sufficient space between them, so 
that the leaves of one do not overgrow another. The 
crowns should be kept pointed towards the south, with a 
view to getting them strong and well ripened by exposure 
to the sun’s influence. Strawberries in pots require 
constant attention in watering through the summer 
and early autumn; they need copious supplies whenever 
itis fine, but, in showery weather, the rain often supplies 
sufficient moisture for several days together, and growth 
made under such naturally favoured conditions is then 
rapid. Before there are any severe frosts, the plants 
should be stored away for the winter, or until they are 
required for forcing. They may be plunged amongst dry 
leaves, in cold pits or frames, where litter or some other 
covering can be thrown over to exclude frost. On all 
fine days, and during mild weather, the sashes should 
be removed: the plants only need protection from 
heavy rains and sharp frosts. Where frames or pits 
cannot be spared, the plan of plunging the pots in 
ashes, one above another, against a south wall is some- 
times adopted, the pots being laid on their sides, with 
the crowns outwards, and all one way. Garden mats 
may then be laid over them at any time, if it becomes 
necessary. 
Under the system of layering on the fruiting-pot, the 
mode of treatment is very similar, except that no small 
pots are used, and, consequently, no second potting is 
necessary. The large pots (6in.) should be cleaned, well- 
drained, and filled with good soil, at the first; then 
taken to the Strawberry plantation, and the selected 
runners placed on them, in the way previously described. 
Watering must on no account be neglected, not giving 
sufficient to cause sourness in the soil, which, it is im- 
portant to remember, has to serve the roots for the 
season. When the plants get established, they may be 
detached from the parents, and afterwards treated in 
precisely the same way as has been already described. 
No check consequent on repotting is experienced by 
plants thus treated; and the pots may, in the first place, 
be filled rapidly with soil. They are not so readily taken 
to and from the plantation as when the small size is 
used; but, on the other hand, when established, they 
may be taken direct to the place where they are to 
remain for the summer, and there is no fear of injury 
from the roots becoming starved, because of delays that 
often unavoidably occur in getting the work of re-potting 
completed. 
The preparation of plants for forcing has been thus 
fully detailed, because on it principally depends the 
success with them when introduced under glass for 
Strawberry—continued. 
fruit-bearing; or, at least, superior forced fruit must 
not be expected if the crowns are not strong, plump, 
and well-ripened, at the outset. Strawberry forcing, 
and its attendant results; are matters of very great im- 
portance to most gardeners every season. Under suc- 
cessful management, good fruits may be secured some 
time during the month of April; earlier than this, the 
amount of natural heat and light necessary, through 
all stages, for attaining proper development, is seldom 
forthcoming. Some of the best-ripened plants of an 
early variety—such as Keen’s Seedling or Vicomtesse 
H. de Thury—may be introduced under glass, for start- 
ing during December, or early in January. The tem- 
perature at first must not exceed 40deg. to 45deg. at 
night, and from 45deg. to 50deg. by day, with air on 
all favourable occasions. This will be sufficient to excite 
the crowns to push the embryo flower-stalks and leaves 
which they contain; but forcing must still be conducted 
very slowly, even until the time the fruits are set. By 
the time the plants reach the flowering stage, the days 
will have lengthened, and full sunlight must be admitted 
to them, with a free circulation of air—always avoiding 
a draught. When flowering, an average temperature of 
about 55deg. must not be exceeded, and the admission of 
air from some quarter is essential for insuring fertilisa- 
tion; the atmosphere at this period should be kept some- 
what drier than is advisable at any other time, till the 
fruits are ripe, and syringing must, for a few days, be 
discontinued. The strongest flowers appear amongst the 
first that open; and if from nine to a dozen of these 
can be induced to set properly, it will be a good crop, 
and all the smaller, secondary flowers may be clipped off 
so soon as these are safe. During forcing operations, 
it is important to remember that the four parts of 
a Strawberry flower are formed in succession, and 
that the most essential of all, the pistil, arrives last 
at maturity to perform its allotted function. It must 
not, therefore, be inferred that, when the calyx appears, 
and the white petals expand, the other organs are 
similarly advanced. In early forcing particularly, great 
care must be taken in regard to temperature and 
moisture during the whole flowering period. After the 
crop is set, a higher temperature should be gradually 
applied, about an average of from 60deg. to 65deg. ; or 
the plants that are sufficiently advanced may be shifted 
into another house, if there are others coming on for a 
succession. 
Watering must receive special attention. Plentiful 
supplies are requisite, especially when the fruits are swell- 
Ste no Pomerat tar should ever be allowed to 
get quite dry at the root. The application of manure- 
water is of great advantage while the fruits are swelling, 
or the plants may be assisted more conveniently, and - 
quite as efficiently, by placing a little artificial manure 
over the surface of the soil once a week, and watering it 
in. The effect is most marked just as the first signs 
of colouring are seen, and this should be the last appli- 
cation made. Syringing may be freely practised until 
the fruits begin colouring; besides supplying moisture, 
it materially aids in keeping down Red Spider. When 
the earliest fruits are nearly ripe, carefully transfer 
the plants to a cool, airy house for two or three days 
before gathering; this will often improve the flavour 
immensely. As the crop is taken, the plants may be 
turned out and thrown away, or preserved for forming a 
new plantation, according as they may or may not be 
required: others will be coming on to take their places. 
Where large quantities of Strawberries are forced, a 
Strawberry-house, specially devoted to bringing on suc- 
cessions, is the best arrangement. This should be fitted 
up with beds or shelves, near the glass, where full 
exposure to sun and light is at all times secured. The 
quantity of plants forming a successional batch must 
