Killing Insects 



The Cyanide Killing Jar. The best kill- 

 ing bottles are charged with potassium or 

 sodium cyanide. These compounds give 

 off deadly fumes sufficient to kill most in- 

 sects in a short time. The cyanide jar 

 (pint size) is made by covering a §" layer 

 of cyanide in the bottom of the jar with 

 a blotter cut to fit the inside diameter. A 

 \" layer of sawdust is added and covered 

 with another piece of stiff blotting paper. 

 A thin layer, about T 3 g", of plaster of paris 

 is poured on top and allowed to set with 

 the cover off (See Fig. 10.) Other size 

 jars should have these layers in proportion 

 but smaller jars will require thinner layers. 



A freshly made bottle should be allowed 

 to set several days before using, and unless 

 one is used to handling chemicals or poi- 

 sons the killing bottle should be purchased 

 as the making of these bottles by amateurs 

 is very dangerous. 



Important! Cyanide bottles should be 

 labeled "Poison," kept tightly corked, and 

 placed where children cannot reach them. 

 To prevent breakage several layers of ad- 

 hesive tape can be applied to the bottle, 

 covering the bottom and extending an inch 

 or two up the side. If the bottle should 

 break, pour water over the cyanide and 

 the poison will soon be dissipated. A 

 cracked jar should be buried, first making 

 sure to smash the jar with a spade before 

 covering it with earth. Remember, both 

 the cyanide gas and the solid are poison- 

 don' t breathe the gas and wash your hands 

 carefully after handling the solid. 



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Fig. 10. Killing jar. 



Use of Cyanide Killing Jar. There are, 

 of course, many ways to remove captive in- 

 sects from the net bag for transference to 

 the killing jar. As previously recommend- 

 ed, when enough specimens are in the net, 

 swing the end of the bag over the loop or 

 ring in order to prevent their escape (See 

 Fig. 11a). The bag may then be laid on 

 the ground and specimens removed by slip- 

 ping the hand under the rim as in Fig. 

 lib, or the entire catch killed at once as 

 in lid. Sometimes with large specimens 

 one will want to use the method shown in 

 Fig. lie. Another approved method for 

 removing insects is to hold the net in an 

 upright position, end of the handle on the 

 ground. Hold the net in position by cross- 

 ing a leg over the handle and remove speci- 

 mens by running the jar or killing tube 

 into the net bag. (See Fig. 13 for the 

 proper method of using a killing tube.) 



The specimens should not be left in the 

 killing bottle longer than 3 to 8 hours be- 

 cause insects become brittle and some col- 

 ors fade after exposure to the fumes for a 

 greater length' of time. Thirty minutes 

 exposure to cyanide will kill all but the 

 toughest forms. Snout beetles require sev- 

 eral hours. 



It is necessary to keep the inside of the 

 the bottle dry to prevent the killed speci- 

 mens from becoming discolored. This 

 may be avoided by shredding some paper 

 toweling or filter paper and placing a few 

 pieces in the killing bottle. Moisture will 

 not only be readily absorbed but specimens 

 will also be kept from shaking about by 

 the toweling. It should be replaced when 

 it has become overly moist. When collect- 

 ing butterflies, moths and other delicate 

 winged insects, place a layer of soft cotton 

 in the bottom of the jar instead of paper 

 toweling. 



To revive an old killing bottle that has 

 become weak, drill a hole thru the plaster 

 with a darning needle or piece of wire and 

 add a few drops of vinegar or other dilute 

 acid. 



Collectors of delicate moths and butter- 

 flies frequently put a few drops of ether or 

 chloroform in their killing jars before 

 starting out. This is done to quiet the in- 

 sects at once because the cyanide fumes 

 kill slowly. 



Butterflies often batter themselves when 

 placed in the killing jar. They may be 

 stunned by pinching the thorax between 



