of wire, 9 or 10 gauge, and file or flatten one end until it resembles a screw 

 driver. Bend this end to fit the shell, insert and scrape the inside under the 

 spire. Then hook out the remaining half of the animal. 



If time is no object, bury your shell in a bucket of sand, with one end 

 of the aperture down so that the decaying animal matter will drain out of 

 the shell. This is important, because if allowed to stand in the shell the 

 liquid formed by the rotting flesh will take the color out of any part of the 

 shell in which it is allowed to stand. We have seen many a shell spoiled 

 in cleaning this way; just recently a lady put a shell out into the back yard 

 to let the ants clean it. The smell became too great, so she put it in a 

 glass of water and left it for a day or two. When she took it out, it was 

 so discolored as to be worthless, since the decaying animal matter in the 

 water had taken out all of the natural color. So if you decide to keep your 

 shell in water while the deteriorating process is going on, change the water 

 and wash out the shell several times each day. — Hawaiian Shell News. 



Hydraulic Cleaning of Shells. It would be hard to overemphasize the 

 importance of water pressure in cleaning shells. One method is to turn the 

 nozzle of a hose until it makes a jet, another to use the spigots in the 

 laundry tubs, holding the shell to be cleaned in the palm of the hand and 

 directing the water into the aperture. 



If you are mechanically inclined or have a friend who is, try this: 

 start with standard garden hose and get a reducer for the end at any 

 plumbing shop. Take this to the carburetor parts section of an automotive 

 supply store and get a brass reducer to fit on the first reducer; this may 

 have to be soldered on. Keep adding reducers until you get down to the 

 size of the base of an oil-can spout. Solder this on. This will reduce the 

 size of the stream of water to a piercing jet the size of a pencil lead, and so 

 powerful that if turned on full strength and directed against the palm of 

 the hand it will give a burning sensation. Two minutes' use in the aperture 

 of a boiled or spoiled shell will clean it completely. — Hawaiian Shell 

 News, adapted. 



Polishing Abalone Shells. Cover inside nacre and completely plug holes 

 with a thick layer of melted paraffin. Put into a 50 percent solution of 

 hydrochloric acid for a few hours. (Caution!). Polish with Crocus cloth, 

 finish with powdered pumice. — Scripps Institution of Oceanography 



Cleaning Shells when Time is a Factor. If possible, boil cones and other 

 shells of the heavy and impervious type, immediately removing the dead 

 animal with a wire. If any residue remains, place shell in methylated spirits 

 in a jar (never use metal container) for 24 hours or longer, according to 

 size. All tiny shells go into this solution for 24 hours; Cypraea and delicate 

 shells for 12 hours. Hook out the animal and dry thoroughly; never use 

 water. Another method is to put a layer of salt in a jar, a layer of shells, 

 layer of salt, etc. With this method use a bakelite (or plastic) cover; shells 

 can be so safely stored for an indefinite time, cleaned when the opportunity 

 presents itself. — Mrs. E. B. Grigg, of Cairns, Australia, in Hawaiian Shell 

 News, Vol V, No. 8 



(17) 



