DIFFERENT WAYS OF SWIMMING 



and untroubled. The bottom is covered by a luxuriant 

 submarine vegetation, a thick carpet of algae and 

 grass-wrack, in which all sorts of fishes and other 

 animals swarm, for there, in absolute security, they 

 find an easy prey in great quantity. These fish do 

 not differ in any way from those of the neighbouring 

 sea; they belong to the same species, but they are 

 more numerous and better nourished. 



Only a few years ago it was a considerable under- 

 taking to visit this lake. Camels, mules, horses and 

 even an escort were essential. To-day no journey 

 could be easier. An excellent road and a daily service 

 of motor-cars take one there without the least dis- 

 comfort. A trip that used to take several days can 

 now be made in a few hours. Comfortably seated on 

 soft cushions, instead of in the saddle or perched up 

 on the oscillating hump of a camel, one sweeps through 

 places where formerly one had to halt and camp. 

 In a few hours after leaving Gabes and its splendid 

 oasis, with gardens hidden beneath spreading palm 

 trees, the goal is reached, about ninety miles separating 

 the bay from the town of Gabes. 



Though the journey may not take much time, it is 

 exciting. We go through new regions which have 

 very little in common with the more populated places, 

 more policed and less arid, of Northern Tunisia. We 

 meet horsemen wrapped in their burnous, their carbines 

 over their shoulders, their heads covered, over the 

 turban, by a large straw hat with broad brim bordered 

 with coloured balls. We meet caravans of nomads, 

 escorting flocks of sheep and goats, carrying their 

 folded tents and provisions on camel back. We go 

 through a strange country, sometimes undulating, 

 sometimes flat, and often not a living soul is to be 

 seen. The desert is not far away, and we realise its 

 presence. 



At the beginning of the journey we leave to the 

 south the bluish mountains where the Matmata live, a 



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