CHAPTER IV 



THE FISH OF BOUILLABAISSE 



The word " bouillabaisse " invariably makes us think 

 of Marseilles. It calls up a memory of that active 

 city on the shores of the Mediterranean, and of the 

 bright sun of Provence shining down upon its girdle 

 of harbour, piers, factories, and warehouses. That 

 delightfully odorous dish, perfumed and coloured by 

 saffron, that " soup of gold," " bouillabaisse," originated 

 there, and from there has spread throughout the world. 

 It is prepared and served today in Paris and Algiers, 

 in London and San Francisco. Wherever fresh fish 

 is to be had, it is always possible to enjoy the character- 

 istic slices of bread, impregnated with the smell of the 

 sea, sprinkled and gilded by the saffron liquid. Its 

 fame is universal. And, now, it is to be had every- 

 where. 



True, say the epicures who have travelled, there is 

 no great port where bouillabaisse is not to be had, or 

 at least where one cannot have it prepared. But, 

 nowhere has it the flavour which we enjoy at Mar- 

 seilles or Toulon; in no place, whatever the tastiness 

 and freshness of the fish of which it is composed, 

 does it give out that peculiar aroma, that delicate, 

 enticing perfume of the seashore, so admirably en- 

 hanced by that of saffron and other condiments, which 

 we relish so much on the coast of Provence. There 

 it possesses a peculiar element which is lacking else- 

 where. As, in order to be perfect, it calls for an 

 unusual variety of fishes, doubtless, say the con- 

 noisseurs, one does not get the same assortment 

 elsewhere. Fish can be cooked in a saffron bouillon 



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