THE FISH OF BOUILLABAISSE 



anywhere, but only at Marseilles or the country near 

 by do we find the finest bouillabaisse, just as only in 

 certain special parts of the country are we sure of 

 obtaining wines of the finest vintage. 



There is a certain element of truth in such remarks. 

 At Marseilles it is only necessary to go round the 

 fish shops and pick out the indispensable assortment. 

 There is no difficulty about this, for the assortment 

 is known as " bouillabaisse fish." We see, lying 

 among the ribbony leaves of seaweed recently gathered 

 and damp to keep them fresh, the different kinds — 

 always the same kinds — of fish which make up the 

 dish or provide its basis. First the hog-fish, or 

 scorpion fish, with large spiny heads, the body marked 

 with dark brown, russet, and bright yellow; the sea 

 bream, striped with red, orange and blue, like flags; 

 the variegated sea-perch; the wrasse with spots of 

 all colours; the black, elongated congers; the sargo 

 or silver sea-bream, and several others, graced by 

 crabs, mantis-shrimps, and small crawfish or spiny 

 lobsters. From this varied collection, spread out upon 

 its bed of alga?, there rises a penetrating odour, that of 

 rocks washed by the sea, the same odour that one 

 breathes on the seashore, but stronger and richer. 

 It is precisely this which gives its charm to the best 

 bouillabaisse. No other quality of fish or other sea 

 animal would do it so well. 



The epicure is satisfied with this explanation, and 

 looks no further. The naturalist wishes to know 

 more. He asks where these different kinds of fish 

 live in their natural state, whether they are found 

 together, or whether they are widely scattered. He 

 would like to know whether this miscellaneous com- 

 bination presented on the fishmonger's counter is 

 made by the fishmonger himself or if it is a natural 

 arrangement. A little investigation will soon provide 

 the answer. This is a natural combination. Neither 

 the fisherman nor the fishmonger prepare it. All 



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