THE FISH OF BOUILLABAISSE 



tion from the epicure's point of view. This crust, to 

 use his own expression, was nothing but the mucous 

 juice extracted by the liquor from the skin of the fish 

 and coagulated by the heat. This juice, made out of 

 the skin itself, is strongly impregnated with that smell 

 of the sea which we find so strong in the catch brought 

 up by the " gangui ". As it is this scent which gives 

 bouillabaisse its particularly attractive aroma, the juice 

 which produces it is therefore very important and 

 every effort should be made not to lose the least drop 

 of it. There was good reason for Armand's spoon. 

 I understood why the hog-fish, of all other species, 

 has the reputation of being particularly valuable. Its 

 stubby body and large thick-skinned head have a 

 greater proportion of this highly valued juice than 

 anything else. So the idea of the " facies " is extended, 

 going beyond the habitat, even to sensations of taste 

 and smell. 



These reflections only lasted a moment. Hunger, 

 made all the keener by these preparations, now had 

 the mastery and claimed obedience. Soon the bouilla- 

 baisse was ready, Armand took the pot with both 

 hands, poured the golden, perfumed liquor which 

 came from it over the slices of bread, put the fish in 

 another bowl, and set the lot on the improvised table. 

 So we finally assuaged our appetites and satisfied our 

 taste for good living at one and the same time. The 

 sky full of light, the brilliant rocks, the sparkling 

 sea, surrounded us with gorgeous colouring. No 

 dining-room, however magnificent, could ever hope 

 to equal this natural splendour. 



After the meal, before starting for home, we were 

 glad to chat as comrades happy at the termination of 

 their common day's work. I have a very high opinion 

 of the conversation and character of fishermen, as, in 

 another field, of those of mountain guides. Both are 

 moulded by the hard life they lead, which keeps them 

 continually face to face with the great scenes of nature, 



6 9 



