THE FEELERS OF THE BARBED MULLET 



in oil and condiments, and make of them a sauce which 

 they use to accompany, or rather to enhance, the enjoy- 

 ment of the flesh. " The mullet is the sea woodcock," 

 they say, pointing out, however, that one has to wait 

 several days before the woodcock is ready for eating, 

 whereas the mullet should be eaten as fresh as possible. 

 When they are prepared in this way, say these epicures, 

 they are equal to the very finest fish. Indeed, some 

 say they are the very best. 



This apologia of taste, so far as the mullet are con- 

 cerned, is not out of place. They are often called the 

 Bearded Mullet because of the two feelers they have 

 under their chins like a beard. This distinguishes them 

 from the gurnards and other fishes of bright red hue 

 which have no such whiskers. These appendages are 

 organs of taste. 



The bearded mullet may also be distinguished by the 

 shape of their heads, as well as by their colour and the 

 feelers on their chins. The long sloping forehead forms 

 a continuous curve with the back, then passes down- 

 wards to the snout, which prolongs it like a broad, blunt 

 nose. This head, which reminds us of that of the red 

 mullet, has the mouth set low down, almost ventral. 

 The feelers are attached below it near the middle. 



Their genus, called Mullus since the time of Linnaeus, 

 who was the first to give it that name in memory of the 

 fondness of the Romans for it, has, in European waters, 

 only one principal species, comprising several types 

 according to habitat, size, and doubtless sex. The most 

 abundant, and that most frequently caught, is the 

 common or bearded mullet {Mullus barbatus, Linnaeus) 

 which is found over the muddy bottom of the open sea, 

 where it is taken by draw-nets. It is of uniform hue, 

 carmine on the back, rosy on the sides and beneath the 

 belly; its length seldom exceeds 7§ inches. 



The others, less. often met with, though still fairly 

 common, live in shallower water near the coast, or in 

 certain pools in which the sea water is very pure; they 



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