3 o SPITSBERGEN chap, hi 



Svolvaer, enclosed and backed by glorious snowy mountains. 

 " What a place," we all cried, " for a summer holiday ! " 

 and we registered vows to come thither again. But it is 

 really in March that one should visit Svolvaer, when the 

 great fishing takes place, and thousands, tens of thousands, 

 of the beautiful boats of the Nordland are gathered together 

 at one time for the fishery. One moment they will all be 

 busy with the catch ; the next a breeze may spring up or 

 the fish move away, and with a single impulse ten thousand 

 sails will be hoisted, all bright with colour, and the fleet 

 will move off, urged as by a single will. 



The studio and pictures of the late talented young 

 Norwegian artist, Gunner Berg, attracted us ashore. The 

 streets of the village are creeks and its blocks islands. A 

 boatman rowed us to the house we wanted, and fetched 

 Gunner Berg's brother, who kindly gave admission to the 

 studio. It contains little but oil sketches and unfinished 

 pictures. The Vaagakallen peak in deep winter snow, with 

 groups of bright-coloured fishing-boats on the waters at its 

 foot, were the subject of many. A sketch of a skilobner 

 specially attracted me. The art of the painter was un- 

 doubtedly great. He depicted his own folk in the atmos- 

 phere in which they live. His work is full of air, light, 

 and motion. He painted less the shapes than the relations 

 of things. His sketches are not mere compilations from 

 scenes beheld, but skilful renderings of definite impressions 

 seized, comprehended, and made visible for others. 



Shortly after noon we sailed again and looked up the 

 Ohel Sound, to its continuation, the Raftsund, with Mo 

 Sadlen at the end, biggest of peaks hereabouts. Fresh 

 water was taken in at picturesque Brettesnaes, which boasts 

 an English vice-consul (who came to call), and a manu- 

 factory where cods' heads are converted into manure. 

 Her thirst quenched, the ship sailed on, past the glorious 



