ii2 SPITSBERGEN chap, vn 



the age of science ! The hills were a topographical puzzle 

 for us, and their story a geological enigma. 



In the afternoon of July 3 we awoke to find the sun 

 pallidly shining on the bleak hills, through a sky beautiful 

 with various layers of cloud up to a serene bed of 

 delicate cirrus. Cold draughts blew over the pass, and 

 there was a thick cloud-bank beyond, but the omens were 

 at last fair, and Baldhead Peak was mainly uncovered, whilst 

 up Booming Glacier were tantalising peeps of deep-lying 

 snow-fields and other perplexing forms. The first work 

 was to patch up the sledges, one of which was in a parlous 

 state, its runners reduced to mere paper, hopelessly frail. 

 Whilst this was in hand — or, to be accurate, in Gregory's 

 skilful hands — glaucous gulls flew around, and inquisitive 

 long-tailed skuas hovered only a few feet overhead. Food had 

 been found for the ponies, who were thankfully absorbing 

 it, after two days' uncommonly short commons, or rolling on 

 the moss and mud in joyous relaxation. 



Encouraged by the opening prospects, I set forward to 

 work, crossing the pass, and almost immediately losing sight 

 of Advent Vale. The scenery was utterly tame, bogs below, 

 then gentle rounded slopes leading up into clouds, which, 

 however, hid no crags or diversified sky-line, as we after- 

 wards discovered. Only the Baldhead kept showing behind, 

 as though peering to see us safely out of his solitude. 

 Five grating geese kept in attendance ; their throats 

 needed oiling. Then two reindeer came and looked at me, 

 and being puzzled came nearer to within about forty yards. 

 They were asinine-looking beasts, with an awkward waddle 

 in their going and a grunt for voice. Finding me dull, they 

 fed awhile, then made for the river. The snow-bog bank 

 was rotten. The leader, sinking into it up to the neck, 

 returned and tried another place, where was an ice-cornice, 

 which broke under him, and let him in up to the neck again, 



