i8 2 SPITSBERGEN chap, xn 



and sometimes settled on Mount Agardh, but they rather 

 added to than detracted from the picturesqueness of the 

 scene, though we would gladly have been granted a clear 

 prospect up an apparently deep and considerable valley that 

 stretched inland to the west, and seemed to supply the 

 largest affluent to the waters emptying into the bay. The 

 largest rivers in Spitsbergen are not those that flow from 

 the biggest glaciers, but those which carry off melted snow 

 from bog and debris slopes, so that possibly this valley 

 leads some way into the country. Its direction suggested 

 that by it a traverse might be made to the head of Low 

 Sound. 



We spent in all three hours and a half on the east shore 

 of Spitsbergen. It was long enough. By seven o'clock we 

 were back at the moraine, and very soon began recrossing 

 the glacier. The fine view was now behind us, and for 

 the exhilaration of doubt and expectation was substituted 

 the solid satisfaction of success, a more enduring but a less 

 exciting emotion, and one by no means inconsistent with 

 such substantial comforts as a hot meal and a warm camp. 

 Towards these we stolidly trudged, finding crevasses a tedious 

 bore, and snow-slush a nameless discomfort. On the highest 

 point of the glacier-traverse (762 feet), a halt was made for 

 light refreshments and a last view of Agardh Bay, but much 

 of the glory had gone from it, for Edge Land was lost beneath 

 bright low domes of cloud. The sky alone remained infinitely 

 beautiful with its shining stripes of yellow, blue, and grey, 

 redoubled in the level sea. The collar-hills were clear, and 

 less picturesque for the clearness, which manifested their 

 rather mean dimensions. Only the curdled surface of the 

 enormous glacier retained its full dignity, and made its magni- 

 tude even the more impressively felt since we had learnt its 

 width by the memorable process of walking across it. This 

 was our last halt. The remainder of the way was accom- 



