108 



SCORP.ENID^. 



The general rule, however, here as elsewhere holds ; though, for the 

 reason stated, in a modified degree ; viz. that all the Madeiran fishes are 

 in best condition for the table, and also in their richest colouring, in the 

 breeding season, or when, as technically called, in milt or roe : and, on 

 the contrary, are the poorest both in tint and flavour just after depositing 

 the spawn. They sooner, than in England, nevertheless, recover their 

 condition afterwards : and I have reason to suspect that some breed twice, 

 and consequently are in proper season twice a year. This period, when- 

 ever it is accurately ascertained, will be recorded under each particular 

 species. That of the Carneiro is in the summer. I have had the female 

 in the month of August full of roe, and in great brilliancy of colouring. 



But another point to be attended to, so far as the climate will permit, 

 and of importance secondary only to the season, is the time when, after 

 capture, the fish should be prepared for the table. And generally speak- 

 ing, this will be dependent on the depth at which the various kinds may 

 be habitually caught. " It may be considered as a law," says Mr. Yar- 

 rell in the British Fishes, " that those fish that swim near the surface 

 of the water have a high standard of respiration, a low degree of muscular 

 irritability, great necessity for oxygen, die soon — almost immediately, 

 when taken out of the water, and have flesh prone to rapid decompo- 

 sition. On the contrary, those fish that live near the bottom of the water 

 have a low standard of respiration, a high degree of muscular irritability, 

 and less necessity for oxygen; they sustain life long after they are taken 

 out of the water, and their flesh remains good for several days. The 

 Carp, the Tench, the various Flat-fish, and the Eel, are seen gaping 

 (gasping ?) and writhing on the stalls of the Fishmongers for hours in 

 succession ; but no one sees any symptoms of motion in the Mackerel, 

 the Salmon, the Trout, or the Herring, unless present at the capture. 

 These four last named, and many others of the same habits, to be eaten 

 in the greatest perfection, should be prepared for table the same day 

 they are caught ; but the Turbot, delicate as it is, may be kept till the 

 second day with advantage, and even longer without injury ; and fish- 

 mongers generally are well aware of the circumstance, that fish from deep 

 water have the muscle more dense in structure — in their language, more 

 firm to the touch, — that they are of finer flavour, and will keep longer 

 than fish drawn from shallow water." — Yarr. Brit. Fish. i. 22, 23. 



Allowance must be made, of course, in these remarks for differences 

 of temperature and greater general warmth of climate. But it will as- 

 suredly be found that whilst the delicate Red Mullet (Salmonete), the 

 little Atherine or Sandsmelt (Guelro), and Sardinha, with a multitude 

 of other fishes of a soft and tender fibre in Madeira, require to be cooked 

 as soon as possible after their capture ; on the other hand, the firm or 

 hard-fleshed kinds, such as the Chernc, the Badcijo, the Ribaldo {Povia- 



