MEMOIR OF BURCKHARDT. 93 



quently much frequented by pilgrims, but also that 

 of Egypt, India, and Arabia, through which all the 

 exports from those countries pass that are destined 

 for the Egyptian markets. They pursue no manu- 

 factures or trade but those of immediate necessity. 

 By land they carry on no traffic except with Mecca 

 and Medina. With the former city, the intercourse 

 is kept up regularly by caravans which depart every 

 evening after sunset. The loaded camels take two 

 nights to perform the journey (about 55 miles) ; 

 but the ass-caravans, lightly laden, by which letters 

 are conveyed, go through in one night, and arrive 

 at Mecca in the morning. 



The visit to the Pasha, Burckhardt expected would 

 have afforded him a good opportunity for seeing the 

 Arabian capital, the Holy City of Islam, which 

 none but a true Mussulman, since the days of 

 Mohammed, had ever been permitted to enter ; but 

 the messenger had orders to take him by the upper 

 route, which merely touches the suburbs, while the 

 other, and more usual road, passes through the 

 middle of the town. The surrounding country is 

 covered with sand, and almost wholly destitute of 

 vegetation ; the hills, equally barren, rising on both 

 sides, and resembling cocks of hay. 



Near Tayf the country improves ; and though the 

 town itself is concealed with a sandy plain, there 

 are many beautiful gardens at the foot of the neigh- 

 bouring mountains, abounding in roses, and cele- 

 brated over all Arabia. The fruits, consisting of 

 grapes, figs, quinces, pomegranates, &c., are deli- 



