GRAPE-PRUNING ON THE PACIFIC SLOPE 167 



In tying the vines, no turns or hitches must be made around 

 any part excei)t this upper internode. A hitch below the top 

 bud will r€\sult in a crook-necked vine, as the top will bend over 

 in the summer nnder the weight of the foliage. A hitch lower 

 down is even more harmful, as it will girdle and strangle the vine. 



A second tie about half way from the upper to the ground is 

 always necessary to straighten the cane. Even if the cane is 

 straight when pruned, a second tie is needed to keep it from 

 curving under the pressure of leaves and wind in the spring. 

 For high-headed vines three ties are usually necessary. 



For the top tie, wire is particularly suitable. It holds bet- 

 ter than twine and does not wear. E\'en though it is not re- 

 moved, it does no harm, as the part around which it is wound 

 does not grow. The lower ties should be of softer material, as 

 wire has a tendency to cut into the wood. They should be 

 placed so that the cane is able to expand as it grows. With 

 thin and especially with round stakes this means that the tie 

 must be loose. With large, square stakes there is usually suf- 

 ficient room for expansion, even when the twine is tied tight. 



Third summer priming. 



During the third season, average well-grown vines will pro- 

 duce their first considerable crop and develop the canes from 

 which will be formed the first arms. 



Such a vine, soon after the starting of the buds in spring, 

 will have one vigorous shoot about three inches long grown 

 from the old wood and five fruit buds started above on the 

 cane. All the buds and shoots below the middle of the cane 

 should be removed. 



This will leave the four or five fruit buds and will give the 

 vine the opportunity to produce eight or ten bunches of grapes. 

 These buds will produce also at least four or five shoots. If 

 the vine is very vigorous and the season favorable, they may 

 produce eight, ten or more. 



