TRADE DISTINCTION'S IN ALCOHOLIC LIQUORS. 99 



liquors, and, by the relative proportions of its component parts to each 

 other and to the whole mass, eventually determines its quality. In 

 view of the poisonous and deleterious character of fusel-oil, this state- 

 ment may seem like a confirmation of the frequently expressed opinion 

 that all whisky is essentially injurious in its physiological effect ; and, 

 indeed, the fact of its presence in immature whisky has been illogically 

 used as one of the strongest reasons in favor of total abstinence. The 

 argument, however, is no more consistent than would be tbe indis- 

 criminate condemnation of all fruit because unripe fruit is unwhole- 

 some, and a large proportion of it never reaches maturity at all. For 

 note the proviso, " when new." . . . Whisky, when first distilled, is 

 entirely colorless, and, with a few local exceptions, is put up in charred 

 white-oak barrels. The gradually deepening amber hue is imparted 

 to it by the thin brown layer of baked wood underlying the charred 

 surface, the charcoal itself — contrary to the general opinion — having 

 no influence in this respect. No extraneous coloring-matter is needed, 

 nor is any ever used by first-class distillers. A very little tannic acid 

 is also extracted from the wood, causing a slight astringency in the 

 liquor. By far the most important changes, however, are the chemical 

 ones which take place in consequence of the presence of the fusel-oil, 

 its constituent acids and alcohols acting and reacting upon each other 

 with the production of fragrant ethers at the expense of the crude re- 

 agents, so that, in a perfectly ripened whisky, the fusel-oil should dis- 

 appear, with the formation of acetate of amyl (pear-oil), butyric ether 

 (pineapple essence), valerianate of amyl (apple - oil), cenanthic ether 

 (Hungarian-wine oil), etc. Strange transformations these may seem 

 at first sight ; but, nevertheless, they are entirely in accordance with 

 chemical analogy, and by no means so remarkable or complex as those 

 by which the volatile alcohol is derived from the solid starch. The 

 development of these fruit-essences is very slow, but may be somewhat 

 hastened by good ventilation and the proper degree of natural heat. 

 It is probable that there are also other subtile changes, the rationale 

 of which has never been explained, but without which the result would 

 be imperfect, as otherwise it would be fair to suppose that the same 

 end could be attained by adding the proper fruit-essences to rectified 

 spirit, whereas in fact the art of the compounder has never been able 

 to produce a good commercial imitation of the genuine article. 



The entire series of changes is called "aging," and to it is due the 

 mellowness and aroma which characterize a well-ripened maturity. 

 They can never take place in rectified spirit, as it does not contain 

 the necessary constituents. The length of time during which good 

 whisky will continue to improve can not be limited by any absolute 

 number of years. It should, however, never be used when younger 

 than from three to five years ; six years old is still better, and under 

 wise Government regulations it might come about that the usual age 

 will not be less than that. 



