THE INDIANS OF BRITISH COLUMBIA. 629 



own canoes or on board of a small steamer plying between the city and 

 the settlements all along the coast as far as the boundary of Alaska. 

 When in the fall of 1886 1 visited the Indian villages of that district to 

 study the languages and customs of the natives, I joined a young In- 

 dian, who after a few years' absence was returning with his wife and 

 children to his country. Soon the houses of Victoria disappeared from 

 our view, and at the small miners' town of Nanaimo we had reached 

 the terminus of European civilization. Dense woods, uninterrupted by 

 fields or houses, cover the mountains and descend to the shore. No 

 lighthouse warns the ship of the dangerous rocks and shoals which 

 obstruct the narrow straits, and it seems almost incredible that it is 

 only a few hours since we have left the busy town. The European 

 population of the coast consists of a few traders, salmon-fishers, and 

 missionaries, who lead a lonesome life among the Indians. Four days 

 we had sailed through the narrow waters and approached the home of 

 my Indian friend. He was unable to restrain his impatience any 

 longer. By singing and dancing he expressed his joy at the return to 

 his countrymen. At last the village appeared, which had been hidden 

 from sight by a long island. It consisted of a row of well-built 

 wooden houses, painted with gay figures, standing on a small opening. 

 Canoes dug out of a single tree lay on the beach. As soon as the vil- 

 lagers heard the steam-whistle, they manned some boats and set out to 

 meet the vessel. The luggage was thrown into the boats, and we sat 

 down on top of it ; the Indians paddled toward the land, while the 

 steamer slowly disappeared from view. My friend had informed one 

 of the chiefs of the village that I wished to stay with him. He came 

 up to me in all his dignity and invited me to follow him into his house. 

 Here I was at my leisure to look about among the people among whom 

 I was so suddenly thrown. 



The only garment of the natives consists of a cotton shirt, and a 

 woolen blanket thrown over the shoulders like a toga ; the women 

 wear petticoats besides. Their hair is arranged in two braids, while 

 the men tie a gay kerchief or a piece of skin round their heads to keep 

 back the hair. Wondering, they surrounded the stranger, curious to 

 know what might have induced him to visit their lonely village. 



The house forms a square, the side of which is about fifty feet 

 long. It is built of heavy planks which are tied to beams. The roof 

 is also built of planks, and rests on a long timber which forms the 

 ridge of the house. This timber rests on two pairs of uprights, one 

 standing in the front and forming the door, the other one standing in 

 the rear of the house. They are beautifully carved, and represent the 

 crest of the house-owner. Around the walls an elevated platform, 

 about four feet wide, is built, on which there are small sheds serving 

 for bedrooms. 



Each corner of the house is occupied by one family, their partition 

 being divided from the rest by screens made of mats. An enormous 



