CULTURE OF THE PEAR ON THE QUINCE STOCK. 



21 



greater number inferior in size and qua- 

 lity. 



In engraving at end, I have given a 

 faithful portrait of a pyramidal tree of 

 Beurr£ de Capiaumont,* budded on the 

 quince ; this was taken in 1846 ; the tree 

 was then about ten years old, and had been 

 root pruned three times; nothing could be 

 more interesting than this tree, only six 

 feet high, laden with fruit of extraordinary 

 beauty ; for in my soil pears on quince 

 stocks produce fruit of much greater beauty 

 and of finer flavor than those on pear stocks. 

 I have, however, introduced the figure of 

 this tree as much to show its imperfection 

 as its beauty ; it will be observed that its 

 lower tiers of branches are not sufficiently 

 developed ; this was owing to neglect when 

 the tree was young ; the upper branches 

 were suffered to grow too luxuriantly. Sum- 

 mer pinching in the youth of the tree is the 

 only remedy for this defect, if it is not well 

 furnished below, and a severe remedy it is, 

 for all the young shoots on the upper tiers, 

 including the leader, must be pinched closely 

 in May and June, till the lower ones have 

 made young shoots of a sufficient length to 

 give uniformity to the tree. This requires 

 much attention and trouble ; it is better to 

 be careful not to plant any tree for a pyra- 

 mid that is not well furnished with buds 

 and branches to its base. A tree of this 

 description may soon be made to assume 

 the shape of fig. 63, which is a perfect pyra- 

 midal pear tree, such as it ought to be in 

 July, before its leading side shoots and 

 perpendicular leader are shortened, which 

 is best done towards the end of August : 

 this shortening must be made at the marks 



, and all the side shoots shortened in 



the same manner ; also the leading shoot. 

 Hooked pruning scissors will be found the 

 best implement to prune with. The spurs 



* This drawing is omitted. 



a a a are the bases of the shoots that have 

 been pinched in June. 



PLANTING AND AFTER MANAGEMENT. 



As before mentioned, the autumnal and 

 early winter months are to be preferred for 

 planting; care should be taken in selecting 

 trees that are furnished with buds and 

 branches from bottom to top ; but if a young 

 gardener intends to plant, and wishes to 

 train up his trees so that they will become 

 quite perfect in shape, he should select 

 plants one year old from the bud or graft ; 

 these will, of course, have good buds down 

 to the junction of the graft with the stock. 

 The first spring, a tree of this description 

 should be headed down so as to leave the 

 shoot about 18 inches long ; if the soil is 

 rich, from five to six and seven shoots will 

 be produced ; one of these must be made 

 the leader, and if not inclined to be quite 

 perpendicular, this must be fastened to a 

 stake. As soon in summer as the leading 

 shoot is ten inches long, its end must be 

 pinched off', and if it pushes forth two or 

 more shoots, pinch all off but one, to about 

 two inches, leaving the topmost for a leader ; 

 the side shoots will in most cases assume a 

 regular shape ; if not, they may be this first 

 season tied to slight stakes to make them 

 grow in the proper direction. This is best 

 done by bringing down and fastening the 

 end of each shoot to a slight stake, so that 

 an open pyramid may be formed ; for if it 

 is too close and cypress-like, enough air is 

 not admitted to the fruit; they may remain 

 unpruned till the end of August, when each 

 shoot must be shortened to within eight 

 buds of the stem,* this will leave the tree 

 like the annexed figure, fig. 64, and no 

 pruning in winter will be required. 



The second season the trees will make 

 vigorous growth ; the side shoots which 



* There are generally three or four abortive buds at the 

 base of each shoot ; these must not be reckoned. 



