118 



AN IRON ROOFED VINERY. 



Fig. 75.— Cross Section of Rafter. 



glass — one-half an inch wide, and C the 

 ledge the glass rests on, which is a little 

 wider, so that when the rafters are in their 

 place, the glass can be dropped in from 

 above, and will not drop through. There 

 are small stops cast on the rafter inside 

 the gutter, (Fig. 76, a,) for the glass to 

 lodge against, and so placed that the glass 

 must lap a certain distance, as the stops 

 are put on for every light of glass, — and 



Fig. 76.— Portion of the Rafter Glazed. 



saving the time and trouble of using tin 

 hooks, as well as the appearance. 



I also had my last rafters thickened at 

 the places where the connecting rod goes 

 through, by putting on the pattern a small 

 piece around the hole ; so that by counter- 

 sinking the pattern, every hole in the raf- 

 ters will be on a line when drilled for the 

 rod. The pins at each end of the rafters 

 marked C, (Fig. 74,) are to be perpendicu- 

 lar when the rafter is at the proper angle, 

 and are 1^ inches long, and | of an inch 

 in diameter. When the plates are in their 

 places, and fastened, you begin at one end, 

 and with a pair of compasses you mark the 



proper width for the glass, and bore a hole, 

 that the pins will fit, and drop the rafters 

 in their place. After they are all put up, 

 (being previously drilled at the shop, both 

 for the rods to support them, and for the 

 wires to support the vines,) I run a rod, a 

 quarter of an inch in diameter, say 20 or 

 30 feet, through the holes, and also through 

 the inside barge board, and screw a nut on 

 the end. I put three rods (1, 2, 3, Fig. 

 74,) in the 14 feet rafter. I then took small 

 pieces of wood half an inch square, and 

 long enough to keep the rafters wide 

 enough apart, and put one in each space, 

 and under each rod the entire length, — 

 having a nut one inch thick at the other 

 end of the rod, (if your house is longer 

 than the length mentioned 20 or 30 feet.) 

 The object is to continue the rod in a 

 straight line through ; as when the pieces 

 of wood are all in, you place the long nut 

 far enough on the rod to admit the next 

 length to screw into it, and then screw up 

 the nut between the barge boards until 

 everything is in its place, when it is ready 

 for the glass. The better way of painting, 

 is to prime the rafters before they are put 

 up, and second coat before glazing. You 

 leave the small sticks in their place until 

 the putty is dry, and then take them out 

 and finish painting. Instead of sliding 

 sashes on top, I have near the top, in the 

 back wall, a window 3^ feet long by 2 feet 

 high, every 4 feet, and closed with a tight 

 shut, and hung at the bottom ; so that 

 having a cord fastened in the center of the 

 shut, near the top, and drawn through a 

 pulley, fastened below, leaving slack cord 

 enough to open the window the desired 

 width. You push them open with a stick 

 from the inside. I have also, (as you will 

 see by the sketch,) windows on top ; but 

 the others are all sufficient. To support 

 the vines, you prepare three or /our rafters 



