GROWING FOREIGN GRAPES IN HOT-BED FRAMES. 



367 



after this method require a border equally 

 as good, and as much nourishment, as vines 

 planted in a vinery. 



The vines are planted against a wall, or 

 close fence, about three or four feet apart, 

 according to the width of the lights or 

 sashes to be used, planting one vine to 

 each light or sash. If a second frame is 

 required, leave a wider space between the 

 two frames. The vines I should plant, 

 would be one year old from the bud ; and 

 if in a good border, when three years old 

 would be in good fruiting condition. Cut 

 them down to one eye until the season be- 

 fore they are intended to fruit, then en- 

 courage two canes; the strongest is allowed 

 to run its whole length, only stopping the 

 laterals. The remaining cane is stopped 

 at five or six feet, to throw as much strength 

 as possible into the fruiting cane. 



The frame should be three feet high in 

 the back, with a hole cut in the back under 

 the centre of each light, to be shut up with 

 a sliding door, — observing to do the same 

 with the front. Nail brackets on the bear- 

 ers of the lights about one foot apart, and 

 about the same distance from the glass as 

 the upper end of the frame, diminishing 

 gradually from back to front to eight inches. 

 Upon these brackets is nailed the strips that 

 form the trellis. [In other words, make a 

 trellis so that it is eight inches from the 

 glass at the front of the frame, and a foot 

 at the back.] 



Frames of any size will do ; but if I 

 were going to make new ones, I should 

 prefer a frame the width of four lights, — 

 the lights or sashes from eight to ten feet 

 long. 



Making up the hot-bed is the next con- 

 sideration. For this purpose, get long ma- 



nure enough to make a bed about eighteen 

 inches high, well fermented, and packed 

 together ; and form the hot-bed about eight 

 inches larger than the frame all around. 

 When settled, put about four inches of very 

 coarse sand, or creek gravel, or some other 

 material that will allow the heat and mois- 

 ture to escape into the frame, and still hold 

 the heat. When the frame is put on, pass 

 the fruiting cane in the back and train it 

 down the trellis in serpentine form, — never 

 allowing :he turns to approach nearer than 

 a foot. The cane which is left out must 

 be cut down to one eye, to make fruiting 

 wood for next year. The cane that fruits 

 this year is cut down next, and so on. The 

 bed should be made about three feet from 

 the wall. The vines will soon begin to 

 break, with proper management ; then the 

 treatment is the same as with grapes in a 

 vinery. 



I would not advise any one to begin this 

 method of forcing grapes too early in the 

 season in the northern and eastern states ; 

 but rather to wait until the winter is tho- 

 roughly broken up. Put the frame on the 

 border, and put the vines in two or three 

 weeks before forcing them. By closing 

 the frames early, and syringing the vines 

 and sand, you will give a great assistance 

 to the swelling of the fruit. If the vines 

 are not to be forced the hot-bed can be dis- 

 pensed with; only the frame and lights 

 and well prepared border being necessary. 

 I have no doubt but any variety may be 

 grown this way. The Black Hamburgh 

 does well in cold frames in England, and 

 in this sunny climate. I should not be 

 afraid to risk any of the other varieties. 

 Respectfully, Robert Meston. 



NashvMt Horticultural Gardens, Ten., Dec. 2, 1S49. 



