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THE CULTURE OF THE CARNATION. 



The Carnation may be propagated by 

 seed, layers, pipings, or slips. 



Propagation by Seed. — If a select and 

 choice collection is the object, this is only 

 resorted to for the purpose of getting new 

 and improved varieties ; in which case, it 

 is well to grow the seedling plants in a 

 bed removed from the general stock ; and 

 as this sunny, dry clime is all that can be 

 required for the free impregnation and 

 ripening of the seed of this favorite, I see 

 no reason why America could not boast, in 

 a few years, of seedling Carnations of its 

 own, equal if not superior to any in the 

 world, providing due care were taken in se- 

 lecting the sorts to be seeded, and a little 

 trouble in the crossing. In this case, the 

 same process should be observed as in my 

 directions for the Dahlia, recorded in the 

 Horticulturist for November ; only remem- 

 bering that the male and female parts are 

 placed in a somewhat different position ; 

 this being a simple, while the Dahlia is a 

 compound flower. The seed may be sown 

 as soon as ripe, or kept till the following 

 spring. If sowed when ripe, the young 

 plants will require protection during winter; 

 but they will make finer and more robust 

 plants the following year, which will com- 

 pensate for the little extra trouble. 



Propagation from layers is rather a par- 

 ticular operation, and requires some care ; 

 but is the surest method, particularly for 

 this climate ; as pipings and slips are apt to 

 damp off during the hot, damp weather of 

 August and early September. The process 

 is as follows : As soon as the plants have 

 done flowering, prepare a number of hooked 

 sticks, or pegs, about four inches long, and 

 some fresh, friable mould, (the top spit of a 

 good pasture is best.) Break this well with 

 the spade, and crush all lumps ; but do not 

 use a riddle, as riddled soil, in this as all 

 other cases, is apt to bake on the surface 



and become sodden, particularly when used 

 in pot culture. It were well for the pro- 

 fession if we had not so many lady-fingered 

 gardeners, who are afraid to use the natu- 

 ral means God has given them to separate 

 the larger lumps in their composts. They 

 would often meet with more success in 

 their operations, if they had never known 

 such machines. Having pegs, soil, and a 

 good sharp knife ready, proceed by strip- 

 ping off a few of the base leaves from the 

 bottom of each side shoot ; then gather the 

 leaves of each carefully together, and cut a 

 little from the tips. This latter is of ser- 

 vice, as it reduces the spread of the "grass," 

 and enables you to lay a greater number in 

 a short space, while it does the layer no 

 harm. Next, take the layer between your 

 thumb and finger, and cut a longitudinal 

 slit upwards, beginning about four joints 

 from the crown, and immediately below 

 the joint, carrying it up to near the next 

 joint, commencing at the outward surface, 

 and slitting straight up the centre ; bring 

 this down to the surface of the ground, 

 having previously loosened it a little, and 

 place a peg so as to keep it in its position. 

 In this way proceed till all are pegged 

 down, and then cover nicely with soil an 

 inch or two, care being taken that the slit 

 remains open. When the layer is thus 

 covered, place the head somewhat erect, 

 but be careful not to break it off, as it is 

 easily done. Towards the latter part of 

 October these will be finely rooted, when 

 they may be taken off and planted out in a 

 cold frame a few inches apart, or placed in 

 five-inch pots, (two or three in each,) that 

 they maybe protected during winter; for 

 though they are hardy, it gives greater se- 

 surity, as rabbits and such like animals are 

 very fond of them. 



Propagation by pipings is performed by 

 taking the side shoots, about four joints 



