524 



FOREIGN NOTICES. 



mcnt in the holes of the pots should be picked out 

 carefully with a spike-nail, or sharp pointed stick, 

 and if obstructions should be suspected beyond the 

 reach of this procedure, the ball must be turned 

 out, and any extraneous matter from worms, or 

 other sources, carefully removed, taking care to 

 adjust the crocks, or other drainage materials, at 

 the same time, in order to facilitate the free dis- 

 charge of water, loithout which, it will be abso- 

 lutely itnpossible to obtain success. If the turn- 

 ing out can be avoided, all the better; for one of 

 the worst faults attending this, is the difficulty of 

 placing the ball in precisely the same position 

 again, which is very necessary, for, in the event 

 of a change in position, there are sure to be many 

 open cavities, down which the water will be too 

 apt to escape in subsequent waterings, to the de- 

 sertion of the ball, through which it should be 

 made to percolate in an even way. An old prac- 

 titioner — one used to the potting bench — can rea- 

 dily replace a ball in its old position; it is, never- 

 theless, a rule-of-thumb affair, only acquired by 

 long practice. 



Commencing Forcing. — All these things being 

 accomplished, the plant is now ready to be intro- 

 duced to a warmer climate; and here we must 

 pause to ascertain what situations are available, 

 and, also, what conditions are necessary. 



Bottom-heat. — Whatever situation may be cho- 

 sen for the vines ultimately, it will be of eminent 

 service, if, in their earlier stages, at least, they 

 can have the advantage of a moderate bottom- 

 heat. We are quite aware that not every one 

 can comply w T ith the conditions here laid down ; 

 still, in offering advice we do not deem it a duty 

 to compromise principles of importance, but ra- 

 ther to point to what, we conceive, is the highest 

 course of culture. Bottom-heat is now beginning 

 to be considered a valuable adjunct even to out- 

 side borders, where the roots have free liberty to 

 range for food: how much more so, then, for 

 vines in pots, where, from the very limited supply 

 of food, every means must be taken to obtain an 

 active root, and to keep it so; and where a sud- 

 den check is almost sure to prove fatal to a really 

 successful issue? It is, however, not so much in 

 any precise amount of bottom-heat alone that 

 reliance must be placed, but in the relation 

 that amount bears to the average atmospheric 

 heat. 



Light. — The amount of light, as we have before 

 observed, is the guiding-star of this and all other 

 forcing matters, where elaborative processes have 

 to be carried out; such things as sea-kale, as- 

 paragus, &c, forming an exception: here, mere 

 development of buds already organised is sought. 

 Such being the case, the amount of bottom-heat 

 which might be recommended for May or June, 

 would by no means be the most eligible for De- 

 cember or January. As a guide to the amateur, 

 we would, then, suggest that three distinct peri- 

 ods might be considered as comprising the history 

 of vine-forcing in pots — from the commencement 



of the process to the complete ripening of the 

 fruit. These we would thus divide: 



1st. From the commencement to the blossom 

 shewing. 



2d. From the latter to the beginning f the 

 stoning process. 



3d. From the stoning to the ripening. 



We find that we have been drawn rather too 

 deep into the subject for a single paper; we must 

 cease pursuing abstract principles, and come to 

 details. 



Temperature. — During the whole of the forcing, 

 it is our firm persuasion that it would be well for 

 the root to be situated in a medium, three or four 

 degrees warmer than the average atmospheric 

 heat. Vines in pots, to be introduced now, should, 

 during the first period, have a bottom-heat of 

 about 70°, whilst during this stage, the atmos- 

 pheric heat need not by any means exceed 60° — 

 indeed, 55°, until the leaf begins to unfold, would 

 be better. It will be seen here that the object is 

 to get the root into action somewhat before the 

 top, in order that the buds may develop with 

 freedom, and escape what is termed " blindness," 

 which, although not caused by the want of such 

 precautions, is much aggravated by improper 

 treatment, or by neglect. 



By the time that the bunch is to be seen, the 

 tactics must, in some degree, be changed. An 

 atmospheric temperature from 65° to 70° must be 

 secured by day, falling to about 55° or 58° by 

 night; the bottom-heat, also, if possible, advanced 

 in a like ratio. 



As the season advances, and the second period 

 begins to merge into the third, much atmospheric 

 advance by sunshine may be allowed. A ther- 

 mometer rising to 85° in the afternoon, on bright 

 days, will be beneficial. 



Atmospheric moisture must, of course, abound 

 during the first period; and, until the vines 

 break, little ventilation, unless to keep down heat, 

 will be requisite. Afterwards, however, a free, 

 yet cautious, ventilation much benefits them; ren- 

 dering the whole plant more robust. 



Training. — Whether plunged, or, as is often, 

 times the case, set over a back flue, or on the 

 kerb-stones of pine or other pits, care must be 

 taken to train them carefully up, in order to pre- 

 sent as- much perfect foliage to the light as possi- 

 ble. Some " stop" one joint beyond the fruit, as 

 with rafter vines ; we think, however, that two 

 or three joints will be found better. After this 

 stopping, the secondary shoots should be allowed 

 to range a little ; never stopping or disbudding all 

 at once, but always keeping some point or points 

 growing ; thus will fresh fibres be constantly kept 

 a-going — a matter of some importance. 



Watering. — This is a most material item in pot- 

 culture; so much so, that injudicious watering 

 will soon ruin the crop. Presuming that the pots 

 are thoroughly drained, they will take water libe- 

 rally; especially if unplunged, and over a warm 

 flue. When really getting dry, enough water 



