DOMESTIC NOTICES. 



5^ 



ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



Pkuning Young Trees. — i Canada Nursery- 

 man, (Toronto.) We prefer early summer pruning 

 for all young trees like those you refer to. The 

 branches then heal over rapidly, without attention. 

 You may prune with safety at any season if you 

 apply to the wojnci the shellac mixture given in 

 our Fruits and Fruit Trees; otherwise the wounds 

 (except in early summer,) are liable to decay, 

 especially in a northern climate. 



Linden Trees. — Two Subscribers, Boston. — 

 The spotted leaves of this tree like those you sent 

 us we have seen before. They appear to us to 

 be affected by a disease of the cuticle or outer 

 covering of the leaf — owing, as we think, to some 

 defect in the soil, as we have never observed it in 

 deep, rich soils, which this tree prefers. The best 

 remedy is to dig a trench two feet deep and as 

 wide as you can afford, around the outside of the 

 ball of roots, and fill it with rich soil — rather re- 

 tentive of moisture, with a little salt sprinkled 

 through it — say at the rate of half a peck to a 

 trench for a tree 15 feet high. The autumn is 

 the best time to do this. 



Pear Blight.—/. W. J. (Philadelphia.) We 

 think the foliage you sent us discolored by a spe- 

 cies of fungus — perhaps induced to fix itself upon 

 them by a diseased condition of the trees. Slack 

 fresh lime with brine, mix it with about fi\-e times 

 its bulk of soil, and let it lie for a fortnight, then 

 apply it as a top dressing to the roots at the rate 

 of half a peck of lime to a small tree just begin- 

 ing to bear, and half a bushel to a full-grown or 

 old tree. 



Grape Vine.— Jf. L. S. (Geneva, N. Y.)— 

 You should have cut your vine down to one 

 strong bud (or rubbed off all the others,) when 

 you planted it. It will answer now if you let but 

 one shoot grow to each rafter, pinching off all the 

 others. 



Elm Tree Insects. — H. A. Wright, (New- 

 port.) The insect which infects your elm trees is 

 we presume the canker worm. To prevent their 

 attacking the trees they should have a belt or 

 girth of coarse canvass or cloth closely wound 

 round their trunks, and smeared with fluid india- 

 rubber. To make it fluid burn a pair of old over- 

 shoes over a gallipot or pan, (into which it will 

 fall drop by drop before a very hot fire.) where it 

 will remain fluid. It is so sticky that the insects 

 in crawling on the trunk will be caught and cap- 

 tured. 



Raspberries. — W. W. (Salem, Mass.) Your 

 crop has failed for two years past because the 

 plants have been so long on the same soil that 

 they have exhausted it. Make a fresh plantation 

 in another part of your garden — trenching in a 

 little plaster and a plentiful dressing of ashes be- 

 fore hand. 



Chinese Wistaria.— X. V. Z. (Buffalo.) No 

 plant is more easily propagated. Take down 

 some of the long shoots of the present year's wood 



immediately — bury a portion midway between the 

 root and end under the surface, wounding the 

 bark here and there a little with the knile when 

 covered with the soil, and they will root finely by 

 next November. July is the best month for mak- 

 ing layers of roses or any hardy shrubs. 



Rhododendrons. — 4 Beginner, (Newark, N. 

 J.) You will find it not difficult to cultivate those 

 plants if you will choose a shady border on the 

 north side of a fence or in the shade of trees ; 

 though in the latter case the roots must be cut off 

 the trees or they will exhaust the soil too much. 

 If your soil is heavy mix peat earth well decom- 

 posed, and coal ashes with it. 



Budding. — W. Thompson, (Clinton co., N. 

 Y.) The plum fails usually because it is left too 

 late. It should be inoculated the first moment the 

 buds begin to be firm — which with you will be about 

 the fourth of July. Roses should be budded im- 

 mediately. 



Cape Jasmines. — 4 Lady in New-England. — 

 Your plants are sickly because they have not the 

 right soil. Send into the woods, get a basket full 

 of the rich mould under the decaying leaves, and 

 mix it with about a third white sand and a hand- 

 ful or two of fine charcoal, and shake off a good 

 deal of the old soil from the roots and repot them in 

 this compost. They should be kept in summer in 

 a half.shaded spot. 



PE.A.CH 1 rees. — W. Mayer, (New- York.) — 

 Your peach trees have the yellows, and the bettor 

 thing would be to dig them up and burn them. 

 Get a fresh stock from some district of the coun- 

 try where the trees are sound and healthy. The 

 seedlings from the stone this spring will be fit to 

 bud in September. 



Cherry Seedling?. — W., (Chicago.) If you 

 wish to be sure of the vegetating of the cherry 

 stones next spring you must sow them directly 

 after they are gathered. Plant them in drills, 

 like peas, about an inch deep, and cover the sur- 

 face of the ground with hay, straw, litter, tan- 

 bark, or whatever other mulching is most conve- 

 niently obtained. Seedlings from Morello (pie 

 cherries,) do not make good stocks for working on. 

 The black Mazzard or " common Black English 

 cherry" is preferred. 



Carnations. — M. T., (Baltimore.) MaKe 

 the layers as soon as possible after the flowers 

 have faded ; and in order to secure their forming 

 an abundance of roots you should water them 

 every evening. Cover the surface of the soil with 

 a little new-mown hay to keep it cool. 



Brcgmansia.— /. P. W., (New-York.) The 

 plant you describe as the double white Datura, is 

 known as the Brugmansia Knightii — and, grown 

 in a large tub or turned out in a rich border in 

 summer, is one of the most showy of exotic 

 shrubs. It is easily obtained of the principal flo- 

 rists and grows readily from cuttings. 



Native Grapes. — Vitis, (New-Bedford.) We 



