FOREIGN NOTICES. 



235 



the abandonment of further attempts at translated 

 words — unless in cases where the English equiva- 

 lent is in general use, as in Birthwort for Aristo- 

 lochia, or Daisy for Bellis, or where the technical 

 word is not susceptible of adaptation. We would 

 therefore rest content with Dendrobe for Dendro- 

 bium, Camarote for Camarotis, and Acroteme for 

 Acrotemnus. But there is an abundance of cases 

 in which adaptation is impracticable. We may 

 legitimately curtail Odontoglossum into Odonto. 

 glot and lonopsidium into lonopsid ; but what is 

 to be done with names like Hypoelytrum, Holmski- 

 oldia, Lusuriaga or Ornithocephalus? No art 

 can Anglicise them. They must be translated, or 

 changed, or left in their original deformity. This 

 question however need not be raised just now, be- 

 cause they are either of rare occurrence or con- 

 fined to technical science. 



We own that this question appears to be one of 

 much public interest; and we shall gladly publish 

 any adverse views with which our correspondents 

 may favor us. We shall scarcely be suspected of 

 writing to embarrass science. Our real purpose 

 is to make it easy and popular; and we firml}' be- 

 lieve that if natural history is not to be locked up 

 in the cabinets of virtuosi its language must be 

 made as I'amiliar as household words. In saying 

 this we believe that we express the opinion of a 

 vast majority of all classes of society; an opinion 

 in which we are the more confirmed from seeing 

 that a large number of adopted words have al- 

 ready established themfelvcs securely' in common 

 language within these few years. Dr. Lindley. 



The Chrysanthemum. — In the following re- 

 marks respecting Chrysanthemums, I shall chiefly 

 confine myself to the mode of cultivating them in 

 pots. As soon as the plants have done flowering, 

 I cut them down, and place them in any conve- 

 nient corner on the south side of a wall, where 

 they are in some measure sheltered from the frost 

 and north-easterly winds. They remain in this 

 situation undisturbed, except by watering them 

 now and then, until the end of March, when they 

 are removed to a more open place, preparatory to 

 their being wanted for the purpose of propagation. 

 Chrysanthemums many be increased by cuttings, 

 layers, and oflTsets; I have often grown them from 

 the latter ; but I have found the foliage so apt to 

 go off them, and leave the plants naked at the bot- 

 tom, that I greatly prefer cuttings, which, with 

 good treatment, will retain their foliage green and 

 healthy almost to the rims of the pots. The best 

 time for putting in cuttings is the latter end of 

 April, or the beginning of May. I use the points 

 of the best shoots of the current year's wood, not 

 more than two or three inches in length, cutting 

 them close to a joint, and removing the bottom 

 leaves. When potted, I transfer them to a close 

 frame; and if it is convenient, I assist their strik- 

 ing by means of a gentle bottom-heat, but (his is 

 not absolutely necessary, for they strike readily 



without it. I shade for a few hours in the day- 

 time, until they have taken root, when I give them 

 plenty of air, and pinch out their tops, which 

 causes them to break freely. When the shoots 

 have grown an inch or two in length, I pot into 

 large sixties, in a mixture of turfy loam and one- 

 third rotten dung, selecting the strongest and 

 bushiest plants, and discarding the rest. When 

 potted, I again place them in a close frame, and 

 shade a little until they have made fresh roots. 

 They are afterwards set out of doors, sufficiently 

 far apart to prevent their being drawn, and kept 

 well supplied with water. When the shoots have 

 grown three or four inches in length, I again pinch 

 out their tops, in order to make them bushy; and 

 after they have grown an inch in length, I shift 

 the plants into 6-inch pots, placing them again in 

 their former situation; and when they have tilled 

 the pots well with roots, I re-pot them into 9-inch 

 pots, in which I flower them, using the same com- 

 post as before. I now place theni thinly in a nice 

 open place, where they have a free circulation of 

 air: this keeps them dwarf and healthy. I keep 

 the pots clear of weeds and suckers; water them 

 as often as they re(piire it; and when they have 

 fairly set their flower-buds, I give them some good 

 clear manure-water twice a week, or more or less 

 according to the state of the weather. About the 

 beginning of October, I remove some of the most 

 forward plants under glass, giving them plenty of 

 air during the day. The others are taken in as 

 they are required, or as the weather may render 

 necessary ; for though hardy the Chrysanthemum 

 will not stand more than 4° or 5*^ of frost, with- 

 out sustaining some injury. I bloom here every 

 year about 150 plants, varying from one to two 

 feet high, and having from twcnty-flve to thirty 

 full-blown (lowers on each plant, many of which 

 do not require a single stake to support them. 



It may be worth while to remark that, if some 

 of the most promising shoots of out-door plants 

 are layered in the beginning of September, by giv- 

 ing theiTi a twist, and pegging them down a few 

 inches below the surface of the ground, so as to 

 make young plants about ten inches high, they will 

 be well rooted in three weeks, i. e. if they are 

 kept watered. When rooted, they may be taken 

 up and potted in 6-inch pots, and placed in a close 

 frame for a few days, while they make fresh roots; 

 afterwards they should have plenty of air. Plants 

 manaiied in this way are very suitable for the front 

 shelves of the stage, or for mixing with other 

 plants. 



The earliest and best flowering of the plants I take 

 cuttings from, are selected and planted in anyvacant 

 places in the shrubberies, all the shoots being first 

 shortened back to within six inches of the pot. 

 This causes them to make more shoots, which are 

 again stopped, thus keeping the plants dwarf and 

 in due bounds, and inducing them to bloom at a 

 season when few flowers adorn the garden. Beck'x 

 Florist. 



