MR. DOWNING'S LETTERS FROM ENGLAND. 



265 



Haddon Hall gives, perhaps, the best idea 

 that may be gathered anywhere in this coun- 

 try, of the ancient baronial residence, exactly 

 as it was. No part of this large castellated 

 pile, (which is finely situated on the slope of 

 a wooded hill.) is of later date than the six- 

 teenth century. Its history is that of the 

 Vernon family, who built and inhabited it 

 for more than three centuries. Sir George 

 Vernon, the last male heir, lived here in 

 the time of Elizabeth ; and his magnificent 

 hospitality and great establishment gave him 

 the name of the " king of the Peak." 



What struck me at Haddon, was the real- 

 ness and the rudeness of those halls of an- 

 cient grandeur. There is not one altera- 

 tion to suit more modern tastes — not a sin- 

 gle latter-day piece of furniture — nothing, in 

 short, that does not remind you of the solidly 

 material difference between ancient and mod- 

 ern times. Vast chimney-pieces, with huge 

 fire-dogs in them, for burning wood, large 

 halls, with open timber roofs, instead of ceil- 

 ings, wainscot covered with tattered arras, 

 which hung loosely over secret panelled doors 

 in the walls, rude and massive steps to the 

 staircases, and clumsy, though strong, bolts 

 and hasps to the doors, — all these, with many 

 rude utensils, show that strength, and not 

 elegance, stamped its character upon the do- 

 mestic life, even of the great nobles in those 

 days. Here is a house which held accommo- 

 dation for upwards of four score servants, in 

 all the luxury of the time ; and yet, so great 

 has been the progress of civilization, that 

 many of our working men would doubtless 

 think the best accommodation of those days 

 but rough apartments to live in. The seats 

 in the kitchen are of stone ; and there must 

 have been cold draughts in these great barn- 

 like halls, that would make modern effemina- 

 cy's teeth chatter. 



There is a singular charm about such a 

 veritable antique castle as this, which perhaps 



Vol. v. 17 



an American feels more strongly than an 

 Englishman. It gives one the feeling of a 

 conversation with the spirits of antiquity ; and 

 it has for us the additional piquancy, growing 

 out of the fact, that we came from a land 

 where such spirits are wholly unrecognized 

 and unknown. To feel, that in this rude dining- 

 hall the best civilization of the time flourished, 

 and mighty barons, ladies and vassals feasted 

 and revelled, long before the first settlement 

 was made at Jamestown, is very much like 

 being invited to smoke a cigar with Sir 

 Walter Raleigh, or go to the Globe play- 

 house with Manager Shakspeare. 



The terraced garden, too, is quaint and 

 " old-timey." The special point of interest is 

 "Dorothy Vernon's Walk;" for it has 

 both romance and reality about it. Dorothy 

 was the beautiful daughter and heiress of the 

 last Vernon. The son of the first Duke op 

 Rutland fell so violently in love with her, 

 when she was but eighteen, that (his suit not 

 being favored by her father,) he lived some 

 time in the woods of Haddon, disguised as a 

 gamekeeper; and finally, (during a masked 

 ball,) eloped with the fair Dorothy, heiress 

 of Haddon, through the door from the long 

 galler}', which leads down to this walk. 



And this gives me the opportunity to say, 

 that this marriage, of course, brought Haddon 

 Hall into the family of the Dukes op Rut- 

 land, who, for a time, inhabited it in great 

 state ; but about a hundred years ago aban- 

 doned it for their more modern residence — 

 Belvoir Castle. Haddon Hall is, however, 

 though uninhabited, wisely prevented from 

 falling into complete decay by the present 

 Duke op Rutland, and is open to the in- 

 spection of visitors at all times. 



Matlock, considered the most picturesque 

 spot in Derbyshire, is in the ordinary route 

 of travellers, but would, I think, disappoint any 

 one accustomed to the Hudson ; as would, in- 

 deed, any scenery in England, (I will ex- 



