OF HORTICULTURE. 163 
AN ENCYCLOPZEDIA 
Vine—continued. 
Varieties. Nearly all the cool-house Vines, such as 
Black Hamburgh, Buckland Sweetwater, Foster’s Seed- 
ling, Madresfield Court, Muscat Champion, Royal Musca- 
. dine, and most of the small Chasselas and Frontignans, 
may be grown in this way, and, in most instances, with 
great success. 
PRoPAGATION. The propagation of the Vine, as gene- 
rally practised in this country, is effected by “eyes.” By 
this term is meant the buds on the ripened shoots of the 
Fu . FIG. 179. VINE EYE. 
previous season’s growth, as represented by Fig. 179. 
These are cut as shown, about lin. or more in length, the 
best-matured wood, having firm, plump buds, or * eyes," 
being selected. The season best adapted for the operation 
is during the months of January and February—the earlier 
the better, so that the plants may have plenty of time to 
Fic. 180. VINE EYE STARTED. 
grow. A number of small pots or pans should be ; 
pared, and filled with fine soil. A single eye should be 
inserted in the middle of each small pot, and pressed down 
until the top of the bud is just level with the surface of the 
Vine—continued. 
soil: in the pans, a number of eyes may be inserted in the 
same manner, to be potted off singly afterwards. The pots 
and pans, when filled, should be plunged in a bed having 
a bottom-heat of about 80deg., and a top temperature of 
from 65deg. to 70deg., and afterwards gently watered. 
Many other methods of “putting in” the eyes may 
be adopted. Great care is required when the buds com- 
mence to grow (see Fig. 180), they being extremely liable 
to “damp off” at this period. As soon as the roots have 
reached the sides of the pots, the plants should be trans- 
ferred to larger ones, and plunged in the hotbed, to be 
repotted again, and so on. Vines may also be layered. 
This consists in taking a young shoot of a Vine, and 
pegging it down to the surface of the ground, or on 
pots; roots are freely produced, every bud becoming a 
separate plant when severed. In Vine-growing countries 
the plants are propagated by cuttings—i.e., shoots cut | 
into lengths of from 10in. to 18in., which are frequently 
planted in their permanent positions at once. Budding and 
inarching are also practised in various ways. Grafting the 
Vine is largely adopted where it is desired to introduce 
new varieties without complete renewal of the plants. The 
grafting of Vines differs somewhat from that of ordinary 
grafting—not in the mechanical operation itself, which 
is practically the same, but owing to the extraordinary 
flow of sap which occurs in the Grape Vine at the 
commencement of growth in spring; if any portion 
of the stem be cut at that time, a very large out- 
pouring of watery fluid takes place, termed * bleeding," 
which prevents union. It is necessary to defer the 
operation until this flow ceases, which will be when the 
first few leaves have become properly expanded. Common 
whip-grafting is the simplest and best method to adopt. 
At whatever part of the stock it may be determined to 
affix the scion, it is necessary to leave a growing shoot 
and some leaves above this point, for the purpose of 
drawing off by evaporation the superabundant water 
that will have to be disposed of, and likewise for forming 
and perhaps drawing up nourishment for the supply of 
the scion itself until a union is effected. The scions 
being affixed, they should be tied securely, and covered 
with some sort of grafting wax in preference to either 
clay or moss. See also remarks under Por CULTURE. 
CULTIVATION UNDER Grass. The Grape Vine is a 
remarkably free-growing plant, and naturally requires a 
great amount of nourishment in the matter of soil, 
manure, and water, for its successful cultivation. Vine 
borders require to be constructed with some degree of 
care.  Low-lying situations, with damp, cold subsoils, 
should be avoided; ample drainage is most essential. 
The best situation for a Vine border is on a gentle 
slope, where the ground is drained naturally. In such a 
situation, if on a gravelly subsoil, little artificial drainage 
is required, It is well, however, when forming a border, 
to put in from lft. to lift. of broken bricks, &c., as 
inage; and in many cases it is expedient to concrete 
the bottom below this, so as to prevent any possibility 
of the roots descending. As to the sizes of the border, ` 
the roots of Vines travel (if allowed) a great way, and 
it is necessary to restrict their passage. An ordinary- 
Sized border should correspond to the width of the 
house; thus, a vinery 16ft. wide may have a border 
16ft. wide, and so on. A good practice is to form the 
border both inside and outside, the front wall being built 
on arches, so as to allow the roots to go either way (see 
Fig. 181). The depth of a Vine border should range from ` 
2ft. to 3ft., and need never exceed the latter figure. 
Soil. The soil best suited for Vines is a fibry, 
ealeareous, yellow loam—that is, the top spit, or turf 
cut 3in. to 4in. thick, from some old pasture land. 
This may vary greatly, from light, sandy loam to that 
of a clayey nature. Chop the turfs roughly in pieces, 
and to five or six cubic yards add one yard of old lime 
