D 
192 
Walks—continued. 
manner, and provide all the material, is rather an ex- 
- pensive proceeding, particularly on a large scale. Where 
gravel of a binding nature is procurable, it is generally 
preferred to other materials for the surface, as being most 
appropriate, and best suited for garden paths. One of 
the principal objects is to make Walks so that they can 
be used in all weathers without discomfort; but this is 
often somewhat difficult, for although the gravel may be 
of a nature which is in good condition in wet weather, 
it will often be rough and stony during continued 
drought. The amount of traffic which a Walk is likely 
to have over it will prove of assistance as a guide in 
its formation. Besides gravel, asphalte, concrete, burnt 
ballast, and other substances, are sometimes used for the 
surface. Something may generally be said in favour of 
Walks formed of the two first-named—e.g., absence of 
weeds, durability when once made properly, and cleanliness 
at all times. Where it is necessary to have a hard, dry 
Walk, it may be preferable to make the surface of 
asphalte or concrete; but, as a rule, this is neither prac- 
tieable nor desirable for garden paths where gravel is pro- 
curable in sufficient quantity. The question as to what 
the surface of a Walk shall be composed of, need not 
be further discussed, but left for settlement by indi- 
viduals who have often to be guided by what materials 
they can procure. 
Passing on to the formation of Walks, such materials 
as are best adapted will be referred to. One of the 
most important considerations is efficient drainage ; this 
may be readily insured. where the ground is undulated, 
but not so easily on a flat surface. Sometimes, Walks 
will drain themselves naturally without pipes, if the sub- 
soil is composed of gravel; but wherever they are suffi- 
eiently wide to be of importance, and there is clay 
beneath, a proper system of drainage is necessary. 
A good plan is to lay a row of ordinary 3in. drain-pipes 
the full length, either beneath the centre or near one side 
of the Walk, and conduct the water to the best available 
outlet. Catch-pits, with iron gratings on the top, should 
be placed on both sides near the edges, and these should 
be connected with the drain, so that any quantity of water 
may run away as fast as it enters. The width to be 
determined upon will vary, sometimes according to the 
length of the Walk, and at others to the extent of the 
space or inclosure through which it passes. In a large, 
walled-in kitehen-garden, for instance, it is usually found 
most convenient to have a Walk running parallel with the 
wall all round, allowing a space of 10ft. or 12ft. between | 
for a border, on which vegetables, &c., may be cultivat 
and two others intersecting each other in the —À 
the inclosure, where it is very convenient to have a water 
basin for a constant supply. The intersecting Walks in 
this arrangement may be a little wider—2ft. or 3ft.—than | 
those running parallel with the walls; this will distin- 
guish them as being the principal ones. In very large 
gardens, it may be necessary to have more divisions than 
these, and, in addition, &mall, narrow paths, for sub- 
dividing the ground, are requisite; these latter are not 
usually gravelled. Flower-gardens, pleasure-grounds, ter- 
races, &c., have Walks which vary greatly in width as 
a matter of course; but the : 
rie out similarly in all . 
e nearer the two edges are to a | 
incline, the easier is it to proceed. Whee ee ocn 
new garden or grounds, some fixed points have to be made 
from which the levels are taken, and their positions must 
correspond somewhat to the natural disposition of the 
ground. Assuming that the width is determined, and 
new Walk is to be made, the edges, of whatever descri Gon 
they are, must be first levelled and prepared. The oen 
or an equal fall from two fixed points, may be ascertained 
by the use of borning-rods; a straight-edge, 
12ft. long, and a good spirit-level, are also e 
system of making may be | 
| 
THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 
Walks—continued. 
Edges require to be finished before the Walk is 
made, as they are a guide for gravelling, which it 
should not be necessary to alter afterwards. The mode 
of levelling with borning-rods for the edges and the 
Walk is similar; the highest and lowest points at the 
ends of any given length are fixed by pegs driven into the ` 
ground, and from these the proper height can be readily 
found throughout the intervening space. To insure firm 
edges, they should be made up with soil that is in a workable 
condition, and rendered firm by thorough ramming. New 
Walks, that are to be 10ft. or more wide, require ex- 
cavating to a depth of from Qin. to 12in., the lowest 
point being made in the centre or wherever the drain- 
pipes are intended to be laid. When these are inserted, 
about Gin. of rough material, such as clinkers or old 
bricks, should be placed above them; then a layer of 
something in the way of rough ballast, which should be 
well rammed, and the surface left in the shape which it 
should present when finished; and then 2in. or 3in. of 
fine gravel should be laid over the top. This will 
become much less in bulk so soon as it is trodden WE 
over and the roller applied. i 
The proper height of the Walk, when finished, may 
best be indicated by driving in wooden pegs down its 
centre, about 10ft. apart: the positions of these may be 
obtained by the levelling instruments in the same way as 
for the edges, and the pegs can be pulled up as the 
finishing coat of gravel is put on. All Walks should 
be kept higher in the centre than at the edges, in 
order that rain-water may pass readily into the gratings, 
and efficient surface drainage be insured. The height 
at which it is advisable to fix the centre of a Walk 
above the edges depends on the width. Walks less than 
8ft. wide, and with a fall lengthways, will generally be 
sure to drain if the centre is kept on the same level as 
the verge or edging, provided the surface is made so 
that the gravel at the edges is about 2in. lower when 
the work is completed. The iron gratings may be placed 
2in. below the level of the edges in almost all walks. 
The centres of 8ft. or 10ft. walks should be raised lin. 
above the edge level and, as a general rule, jin. more 
may be added for every 2ft. width, so that a walk 28ft. 
or 30ft. wide would require its centre up An, to 6in. 
above the edges, to prevent water accumulating there 
instead of passing to the gratings. These heights will 
not be found too great a proportion for the widths; 
this always needs consideration, or the surface will not 
be comfortable to walk upon. 
Before proceeding to put on the finishing coat of gravel, 
the rough material beneath must be rammed quite firm, 
and consolidated about equally throughout. The top 
gravel should be levelled with a wooden rake, used by 
a workman who, from experience, is able to do it 
| properly. The want of a spit may cause a hollow place 
| in the surface, and improper levelling has an eq 
y 
objectionable effect, which will be readily apparent when. 
rain comes. As the person levelling proceeds, another — 
should be treading the surface erossways, and removing a 
the levelling pegs, which, by this time, have served their ` 
purpose. A second rake must then follow, to remove 
any stones and inequalities caused by treading. A light 
roller may then be used, and afterwards a heavy one, if th 
Walk will carry it without the gravel clinging. It - 
advisable to get new gravel firmly rolled, if possible, 
before rain comes, as if water gets into it when loose, ! 
often takes a long time to get a solid surface. To keeP 
gravel Walks in good order, they must be rolled frequently 
when the weather allows, both in summer and winter. 
the surface is too dry, but little good would result from 
rolling, and if too wet.it might cling, or be positively 
injured; some judgment must, therefore, be exercised in 
selecting the proper times when rolling may be bene 
ficially practised, 
