194: 
THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 
WALL PEPPER. See Sedum acre. 
WALL PLANTS. These are very numerous, if 
the whole of the subjects requiring or benefiting by wall 
accommodation is considered. Kitchen-garden walls are 
requisite for the cultivation of fruit-trees that will not 
succeed in the open; and these are rarely given up to 
other plants, excepting such as Tomatoes, which, in 
favourable aspects, succeed during summer in any inter- 
vening spaces. The term Wall Plants is usually meant to 
have reference to those subjects which, from their natural 
habit of growth, require a wall; but it may also include 
very many others that, from their quick-growing nature, 
may be utilised for rapidly covering a large surface, or, 
from being more or less tender, are cultivated with 
greater certainty, and brought to greater perfection, by 
the shelter which a wall affords. Walls in greenhouses, 
stoves, and most other glass structures, may also be 
utilised for the production of some crop, or covered with 
some plant to impart a much better appearance than 
would otherwise be the case. Of hardy plants that 
succeed admirably on walls, the following, amongst many 
others, may be mentioned: Aristolochia Sipho, Chimon- 
anthus fragrans, many species and hybrids of Clematis, 
Cotoneasters, Crategus Pyracantha, Escallonias, Euonymus, 
Forsythia suspensa, Garrya elliptica, Ivies, Jasminum 
officinale and J. revolutum, Loniceras, Magnolias, Pyrus 
japonica, Roses, Tecoma radicans, hardy Vines, Virginian 
Creepers, Wistaria sinensis, Ze Camellias are some- 
times grown very successfully as Wall Plants in green- 
houses; and apart from their flowers, the foliage is 
always attractive. Strong-growing kinds of Tea Roses 
do well on walls in any cool house, or on the back wall 
in a peach-house. Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Jasminums, 
Passifloras, &c., are well-known wall-furnishing plants. 
Ficus stipulata will cover a wall in a cool house or 
stove with green verdure as dense as Ivy does outside; 
it is, therefore, a very desirable subject. 
WALLROTHIA (of Roth). A f Vitex 
(which see). SE - 
(of Sprengel). ^ Included under 
WALLROTHIA 
Seseli (which see.) 
WALL RUE. Se Asplenium Euta-muraria. 
WALLS. These are requisite for the proper eulti- 
vation of fruit-trees and numerous other subjects which 
require shelter and a warm situation; and the less favour- 
able aspects which must of necessity be presented by one, 
or sometimes even both of the surfaces, may also be utilised 
for some purpose. In a kitchen garden the Walls serve 
as a boundary for the inclosure; and as, during sunshine 
they accumulate a considerable amount of heat, which is 
given off when the air becomes cooled, most of the trees 
on southern aspects, at any rate, are in a warmer tem- 
perature even at night than they would be in the open 
ground. Amongst the principal fruits which in nearly 
every locality require Wall protection are Apricots, Figs 
Nectarines, and Peaches. Morello and dessert Cherries, 
dessert Pears, and Plums, are also best, as a rule on 
Walls; the Morello succeeds well in a north aspect 
which is a great advantage. ‘ 
The actual work of construction does not usually come 
within a gardener's province, but he has, not unfrequently 
to propose the dimensions or give instructions how the 
work is to be executed.. In a large garden, the Walls 
should be 10ft. to 12ft. high—the top of anything less than 
this would soon be reached by any of the fruit-trees named 
above. For a small garden, these heights might be too 
much for the inclosed area to be proportionate, and 8ft 
would then be sufficient, but high Walls are always far 
superior to low ones. The materials commonly used 
are bricks (the dimensions of which are fairly uniform 
in all localities) and mortar. It is most important 
- 
Walls—continued. 
that garden Walls be substantially built, and the foun- 
dations made to rest on a solid bottom; the weight will, 
in course of time, cause settlements, if any portion of the 
ground is of a different character, and the base is, con- 
sequently, not of an equally solid description throughout. 
The foundations should be, at the base, quite double 
the width of the wall that they are intended to sup- 
port. The proper thickness depends considerably on 
the height. Walls that are only to be carried 6ft. or 
8ft. high may be constructed, if the material and work- 
manship are good, in 9in. work—that is, the length of 
one brick. Higher Walls than these should not be less 
than 14in thick, while 18in. is much more substantial, and 
better in all ways. These dimensions are readily obtained 
by using bricks: 14in. allows the length of one and the 
width of another, and 18in. the length of two, for the 
total thickness. Walls are sometimes constructed with 
less solidity than this, and supported by occasional but- 
tresses on one or both of the sides; these are objection- 
able unless really needed, because of their interference 
with the proper training of trees, and it may be pointed 
out that they swallow up a considerable quantity of 
bricks that would help to build a thicker and more sub- 
stantial Wall, and one which would be more satisfactory in 
the long run. All kitchen-garden Walls should be pro- 
vided with a coping projecting over from 2}in. to 3in. on 
each side, and grooved beneath the under side of the pro- 
jection for drip. Stone, if not too expensive, is the best 
material for copings; the entire part at the top should 
be slightly higher than the sides, so that water may pass 
off readily. For the protection of tender fruit-blossoms 
in s ring, when this is necessary, it is better to put up 
a temporary board coping from 6in, to Qin. wide, on 
brackets fixed to the Wall, than to make the permanent 
one too wide. This can easily be removed when no longer 
required; and if the edge of the board is placed beneath 
the stone, and the brackets are of triangular shape, 
there will be no danger of drip on the blossoms. Walls 
should always be kept in good repair: the holes caused 
by nailing in the mortar, and larger ones often caused 
by the action of frost, are invariably harbours for insects. 
Where insects are very numerous, as is often the case 
in old Walls, a dressing of fresh lime and sulphur, 
thickened with a little clay, and made a dark colour by 
the addition of sufficient soot, may be annually used, if 
desired. It should be applied during the time the trees 
are bare, when a little falling on them will seldom do 
any harm. See also Garden. 
WALLWORT. An old name for Sambucus 
Ebulus (which see). 
WALNUT (Juglans regia). The common Walnut is 
a well-known tree, fine in foliage as an ornamental sub- 
ject for planting in parks, paddocks, &c., and useful for 
its fruits, both in the young and ripened state, and for 
the timber, which is largely employed by cabinet-makers 
and others, and for the purpose of making gun-stocks. 
Propagation is effected by seeds; also by budding, 
grafting, and inarching for perpetuating varieties. Seeds 
of Walnuts designed for timber-trees, are best sown 
where the trees are intended to develop, if this 15 
practicable; or they may be stratified through winter, 
and planted in nursery rows, about 2ft. apart, in Feb- 
ruary or March following. The young trees may either 
be transplanted in the autumn, or allowed to remain 8 
year longer; they each form a long tap- root, which 
proceeds straight down, and if transplanting is intended, 
it must not be too long deferred in the first place. Ring 
budding and shield-budding, with a pushing eye, and also 
whip and cleft grafting, are successful methods of propa- 
tion, and all are performed while the sap is in active 
circulation. Walnut-trees succeed in any fairly good soil; 
if of-good depth and resting on a gravelly bottom, d 
