g even a smaller, 
THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, ~— 
Orchard House continued. 1 e ; 
= sufficient bone-dust or fine horn-shavings to be visible 
when the bulk is mixed up. Trees that are in large 
pots, and are healthy, do not absolutely need their 
balls disturbed every year, beyond removing some old 
soil off the surface, and replacing it with new. When- 
ever the drainage is defective, or the roots or soil 
in bad condition, the trees should be taken out, their 
balls reduced with a pointed stick, and replaced in 
clean, properly-drained pots of a similar, or, maybe, 
size. Sufficient space must be allowed 
above the ball for the large quantity of water required 
in summer, and the soil should be rendered firm with 
a stout hand-rammer. When top-dressing only is in- 
tended, it may be practised in October with a nger 
compost than that described above for potting, namely, 
more. manure in proportion to the loam used; but a 
general overhaul is recommended earlier in the season, 
and new drainage, clean pots, and fresh soil supplied to 
the old (reduced) balls, with only few exceptions. Water 
should be given very sparingly after re-potting, until 
the injured roots shall have recovered somewhat the 
i check experienced; it is most important, however, that 
the compost, when used, be suitably moist and work- 
able. Before the flower-buds are so far expanded in 
spring as to show their colour inside, it will be advi- 
sable to stand the trees apart, as, if this is delayed, 
there is great danger of a large number of the former 
getting broken off. This appears a small matter to 
refer to; yet, from its apparent unimportance, it is fre- 
quently neglected, and many blossoms become broken 
off in consequence. It is almost an impossibility to 
separate entangled branches without such a result. 
Thus much having been said respecting the culture of 
Orchard-house trees in pots, a reference may now be 
made to those planted out in a similar structure, First, 
it will be necessary to prepare borders of soil suitable 
for fruit-trees, instead of those of almost any descrip-. 
tion, which might answer well enough for pots to stand 
upon. It is unnecessary to make borders of a great 
depth; 2ft. of soil above the drainage is usually quite 
sufficient for such trees as may be recommended for 
planting out, such as Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines. 
The soil for borders must be somewhat tenacious, and 
not be made over rich with manure. It should be 
rendered quite firm, by being rammed a few days after 
the trees have been planted and watered. It is im- 
portant that fruit borders in Orchard Houses be allowed 
to remain firm and hard on the surface; the latter should 
not be broken, except being very slightly forked, in 
spring, to admit water all over alike. Surface roots are 
numerous on healthy trees, and they must not be broken 
off in spring, or there will be a great risk of the flowers 
dropping off, instead of setting. Mulchings of manure, 
or top-dressings, may be applied to planted-out trees, in 
summer, if they have heavy crops, and need help; but 
both should be avoided if there is evidence of the 
branches or shoots being already too vigorous, and, con- 
sequently, not likely to ripen well. Standard trees 
are, generally, best suited for planting out; those 
of pyramidal shape are soon liable to become uneven, 
because of the sap flowing more towards the upper 
branches and shoots, making them too gross, and render- 
ing the lower ones weakly. This latter style of training 
is most successfully practised in pots, and, if standards 
are to be accommodated in borders, they should be 
sufficiently wide apart to admit of some pot-trees being 
arranged between. Standard Peaches and Nectarines are 
not, as a rule, very satisfactory, unless their heads are 
kept under proper management, and the shoots thinned 
so as to admit sun and air amongst them for properly 
ripening and colouring the fruit. Pear or Apple-trees 
are apt to grow too vigorously for planting in an 
House ; their roots should be restricted in large 
Orchard House—continued. 
pots. Apricots succeed well as standards in Orchard 
Houses. The border, when prepared for them, should 
have a small portion of chalk intermixed, and some 
would also be of service to trees of the Peach and 
Nectarine. The soil should be made very firm, by 
treading and ramming, and, above all, should not be 
disturbed afterwards more than what is really necessary 
for getting water to soak in properly. 
Methods of Training for Orchard-house Trees. The 
two kinds of fruit favoured, perhaps, most extensively 
with Orchard House protection, are Peaches and Necta- 
rines. It has already been stated that, for planting in 
borders, standards or half standards, according to the 
height of the structure, are best suited for these fruits, 
and also for Apricots. The two first-named may be 
grown in pots as pyramids, or as bushes, the Apricot in 
pots being best adapted for the latter shape, or as a 
half standard. Cherries are most important Orchard 
House fruits, at least, if compact-growing sorts are 
selected, and they are worked on the Mahaleb stock, 
which induces a dwarf habit. The form of Cherry-tree 
most eligible either for planting or pot culture, is the 
pyramid. Plums of the finer dessert varieties are well 
worthy of glass protection, previous to, at the time 
of flowering, and throughout the season, in unfavour- 
able districts. In warm parts, the trees are best to be 
placed outside, in a sheltered position, after the fruits 
are set. The fruits are considered superior if they can 
be properly ripened in’ the open air; but, should this 
be impracticable, the trees may be kept under glass, 
and subjected to free ventilation. It is when the trees 
are in flower that prospects of a crop are so frequently 
blighted by the havoc generally resulting from frost, 
rough weather, or a continued low temperature at that 
‘season. Pears are under the same disadvantage as Plums, . 
and they succeed, under similar treatment, in Orchard 
Houses. Trees of both are best adapted for training in 
pyramidal form, and Pears are most fertile, and best 
suited for pot culture, when worked on Quince stocks. - 
None but good varieties should be accommodated in an 
Orchard House, as considerable labour is incurred in 
potting, watering, and supplying all other -requirements 
throughout the year. Apples also come under Orchard 
House fruits, as many of the good, yet somewhat tender, 
varieties, have been most successfully grown under glass, 
and the superior quality of the fruit obtained, compared 
with that of a similar sort from outside, has been 
favourably marked in respect of size, colouring, and 
flavour. Apples from trees grown under glass are readily 
distinguished, in an autumn exhibition, from all that 
have not been so favourably situated. This tree, like 
those last-named, succeeds in pots as a pyramid, pre- 
ferably on the Paradise stock. Figs are sometimes 
included in Orchard House fruits; but they are best 
if provided with a higher mean temperature, and a 
house or compartment to themselves. A tree which 
should, if possible, be accorded a place along with 
| Apricots, Peaches, &c., is the Mulberry. A good-sized 
standard of this in a tub will occupy but little space, 
and it will fruit abundantly, and the produce be far 
superior to any usually procured from the open air. 
Judicious summer pinching is most important in the 
training of Orchard House trees in pots, or of those 
planted out. Cordons are sometimes very useful, where 
space is limited, as excellent fruits are frequently ob- 
tained from trées of that form. Maiden trees can only 
properly be trained into the desired shape by people 
somewhat experienced in the art; yet sufficient know- 
ledge- may soon be obtained, by practice and observation, 
to supply all the attention necessary for preserving a> 
fairly even balance afterwards. Summer pinching of the 
leading shoots may be, practised twice, or even three 
times, in a year, to indgee a compact habit. Cordon 
