46 THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 
Pear continued, 
the surface, none of which are inclined to go deep; con- 
‘sequently, the trees may be readily and safely trans- 
planted, even when they are several years old. This 
stock is specially adapted for shallow soils, for damp 
situations, and for planting where the subsoil is of an 
unfavourable description. Ripening of the wood goes on 
concurrently with that of the fruit, and the less vigorous 
growth which is encouraged has, therefore, a much better 
chance of becoming matured in autumn. As Quince wood 
does not usually enlarge so rapidly as that of the Pear, 
grafting should be performed as close as possible to the 
ground, and, after the clay is added, some soil should 
be brought and heaped over it. If a Quince stock were 
grafted with a Pear at any distance above ground, in 
all probability, the scion above would eventually enlarge 
faster, and the tree stem would be of less diameter near 
the ground than higher up. By working low, and keep- 
ing the Quince portion from being exposed, this may be 
avoided. For procuring standard trees on Quince roots, 
it is, therefore, best to adopt a system of double-grafting 
that is, work a vigorous variety of Pear at the base, to 
grow and form a stem, on which any desired sort may 
be grafted higher up. Double-grafting proves very 
advantageous with many varieties of Pears, but it does 
not answer on all alike. On this point, Mr. Rivers, who 
makes the system a speciality, states: Double-grafted 
Pears seem always to make healthy and prolific trees; 
it must not, however, be concluded that to graft a free- 
growing sort of Pear on the Quince and then to regraft 
it with the desired sort, will always answer. Some 
kinds require the stock belonging to their race; this 
can only be found out by the clever cultivator—as, for 
instance, the Jargonelle on the Beurré d’Amanlis, the 
union of which is perfect, and the trees healthy. Gansel’s 
Bergamot, double grafted, becomes a marvel of fertility.” 
It is especially important that Quince stocks intended 
for grafting should be cut back, for the purpose, very 
early in the year: active growth begins, in favourable 
weather, by February, or, at least, the sap commences to 
flow; and if heading back is deferred until this takes 
place, the upper part of the stock left will often die, 
and the grafts in consequence fail to unite. 
CULTIVATION. Soil and Situation. Any fairly rich, 
Joamy soil, of good depth, with a subsoil sufficiently well 
drained to prevent the possibility of stagnant water 
accumulating, will usually be found to suit Pear-trees. 
When planting, the size of garden, and the amount of 
wall space available for the tree in question, should be 
taken into consideration, as well as the character of the 
soil. The last-named item must, to a considerable ex- 
tent, determine the sort of stock best suited namely, 
whether it shall be the Pear or the Quince. On the first- 
named stock, the trees will prove more vigorous, and 
will require a greater depth of soil; the result frequently 
being that a much longer period must elapse before they 
arrive at a bearing state. Where space is limited, and 
the soil shallow, trees on the Quince stock should have 
preference over others. It is important to remember 
that the roots of a tree worked on Quince are concen- 
trated very close to the base, and are situated very near 
the surface. They require, because of this, more frequent 
attention by way of replenishing part of the soil around 
them, and by the application, at least annually, of a thick 
mulching of good manure, which tends to preserve moisture 
as well as to afford nutriment. Some sorts of Pears, worked 
on Quince, have a tendency, in a favourable season, to bear 
an unduly heavy crop, which, if allowed, would be likely 
to check the new growth and bring the tree to a stunted 
and unfruitful state. This must be avoided, by thinning 
the fruit under such. circumstances, when in a young 
state, or by giving special attention to supplying sufficient 
nourishment throughout the bearing season, for perfecting 
the crop, without risking the proper maturation of wood 
Pear—continued. 
for the following year. Although the Pear will often 
succeed in a rather strong, loamy soil, it will not do so on 
heavy clay, unless previously well drained, trenched, and 
allowed to become pulverised. To encourage a start in 
young trees, where the soil is somewhat unfavourable or 
poor, a compost of turfy loam, decayed manure, and old 
potting soil, if procurable, should be mixed and applied 
above the roots, after they are merely covered with soil 
from which manure is excluded. It is of importance that 
the roots be carefully and evenly spread out in planting. 
Regarding the various situations in which Pears succeed, 
much depends on the different localities and the sorts 
grown. Even where good sorts are found to succeed fairly 
well in the open garden, their fruits are invariably much 
improved in quality if some trees are favoured with a 
position against a wall. Wall space is usually limited, 
yet it is questionable if it could be more profitably 
occupied than by good sorts of Pears—at least, in gardens 
where the fruit is much valued, and where samples from 
the open rarely attain a state approaching perfection. A 
south aspect is that recommended for really good dessert 
sorts; many will also do well on walls, with either an 
eastern or a western exposure. The frequent failure 
of the Pear crop may principally be attributed to the 
extremely precarious weather so generally experienced 
in spring, when the trees are in blossom, and also for 
a time afterwards, when young fruits should be con- 
tinuing to make progress in swelling off. Trees against 
walls may then be more readily protected with temporary 
coverings of some sort than others fully exposed; the 
wall, moreover, is of material help in itself, affording 
shelter particularly if some coping boards are fixed near 
ey top, somewhat like those in frequent use over Peach- 
ees. 
Systems of Training. There are numerous systems of 
training Pear-trees, according to the purpose for which 
the trees are required, and the position they are intended 
to occupy. For the open garden, standard and bush trees, 
pyramids, espaliers, and cordons are each and all avail- 
able; for walls, the modes of training usually adopted are 
the horizontal, the fan, and double or triple cordons, trained 
in either an upright or an oblique direction. Dwarf lateral 
cordons, with stems about lft. high, and two branches 
trained in opposite directions, are suitable for planting in 
sunny positions alongside walks, where they occupy but 
little space, and usually succeed on warm, rather light soils. 
Espalier training has long been popular for the open 
ground. It admits of trees being planted within about 
2ft. of the edge of a walk, and the ground may be cropped 
to within a short distance of their base. An espalier 
fence on which to train Pear-trees may be formed by 
straining horizontal wires 1ft. apart, on a framework 
about 6ft. high. This would admit of a tree being trained 
with an upright stem and six horizontal branches on either 
side. If several espalier trees were permanently planted 
in a continous line, a space of from 16ft. to 20ft. should 
be allowed between each two; cordon or other trees might 
be grown in this space, with a view to their being removed 
before the other branches meet. Espalier fences are 
more frequently formed of wooden rails, or stout upright 
stakes, than of wires, on account of the expense incurr 
in erecting the latter, and the objection usually taken 
to their appearance when fixed. This arrangement is 
also preferable where only a few espaliers are grown 
and where the trees are widely disposed. The pointed 
ends of stakes so used should first be charred or dipped 
in hot creosote. Espalier training has many advantages 
over other systems. It admits of all the branches being 
well exposed to light on both sides, and easy facilities are 
also afforded for regulating them, so as to equalise the 
flow of Sap. The fruits on such trees are usually not 
much injured by rough winds, and it is a comparatively 
easy matter to protect the blossoms in spring. Besides 
