AN ENCYCLOPADIA 
OF HORTICULTURE. 59 
Pelargonium—continued. 
better plan is to preserve until spring, and sow thinly 
in pans of light, sifted soil, covering to a depth of 
Zin. If placed in a gentle heat, the seeds will soon 
germinate, and the young plants may be grown on 
under similar treatment to those previously established. 
They should be placed in pots not larger than Šin. 
until after they have flowered; any worthless ones 
should not be retained beyond this stage. In select- 
ing plants from any section with a view to procuring 
seeds for raising new varieties, it is most important that 
only those which are very choice should be retained, the 
standard of excellence being already so high. ‘There is, 
however, apparently still much room for improvement 
in one or another essential; and, with such a popular 
flower, that has already been so vastly improved by 
hybridising, selection, and seed raising, the work will 
probably continue to be pursued, and unlooked-for results 
may, and doubtless will, yet be obtained. The most 
general method of Pelargonium propagation adopted is 
that of cuttings, made either from the shoots, or from 
the roots. Cuttings from tolerably firm shoots will root 
easily, at almost any time of year, provided they are in 
a proper state, and placed under suitable conditions. 
Spring, and the latter part of summer, are the best 
seasons; and these are most convenient for raising or 
renewing a stock of plants. The species and hybrids 
are readily increased by cuttings, made from some of 
the strongest roots. They should be cut into lengths 
of lin. or 2in., inserted in sand, so that the tops show 
just above the surface, and placed in a temperature of 
about 60deg. But little water must be given until some 
leaves are formed, when the young plants may be potted 
off singly, and grown on in a cooler temperature. 
CULTIVATION. It will be most convenient, in referring 
to cultural details, to deal .with the several sections 
separately, as, although all will succeed under treatment 
differing but little in many respects, the purposes for 
‘which the plants are required, and their seasons of 
flowering, vary considerably. The principal sections of 
Pelargoniums, apart from species and their hybrids, are 
the Show, Decorative, Fancy, Zonal or Bedding, Varie- 
gated-leaved, and Ivy-leaved. 
Species and Hybrids. Many of these may be propagated 
by all of the methods to which reference has been made. 
They are mostly slender-growing plants, and do not re- 
quire very much root-space, 5in. or 6in. pots being suffi- 
ciently large for growing good-sized specimens. Any 
that are found to be of an evergreen nature should not 
be kept quite dry in winter, but should be treated as 
recommended below for the large-flowered Show section; 
the tuberous-rooted species, and those with succulent 
stems, require no water all the winter. In early spring, all 
should be introduced to a little warmth, and gradually 
watered, when growth will commence for the season, and 
a house or pit, where plenty of air is admitted, will be 
the most suitable position. Turfy loam, with a little leaf 
mould or decayed manure, and some charcoal or sand 
added, will be the best compost; the pots should be 
well drained, and the soil rendered tolerably firm. Full 
exposure to sun and air after flowering will be an 
essential, in order to thoroughly ripen the wood for the 
following year. 
Show and Decorative Pelargoniums. Large-flowered 
Show Pelargoniums represent a very extensive and im- 
portant class of plants, useful for greenhouse decoration, 
and specially adapted for exhibition as specimens. Decora- 
tive sorts are, as their name indicates, more especially 
suited for ornamentation; their flowers are not so evenly 
formed, but they are produced in the greatest pro- 
fusion; the habit is also extremely sturdy and compact. 
Cuttings should be procured, early in August, from the 
ripened shoots of plants that have been exposed to the 
sun until the current year’s wood has become hardened. 
Pelargonium—continued. 
Every two firm joints, or even one, will, if required, form 
a short cutting, which, under proper treatment, will be 
almost certain to grow. Insert them, about 2in. apart, in 
pots or pans of sandy soil, and place in an ordinary frame, 
fully exposed to sun. When rooted, pot off singly, in 
about 3in. pots, and press or ram the soil quite firm; 
give only a little water, and return the plants to a close 
frame or house until re-established. If the points are 
soon afterwards pinched out, three or four new shoots 
will form, and these should be tied down, when large 
enough to handle, close on the rim of the pot. Keep 
near the glass, in a cool house, and apply sufficient fire- 
heat to maintain a night temperature of about 45deg.; 
anything above freezing point will, however, suffice in 
very severe weather. About December, the final potting 
may be given, and if the plants are wanted in flower 
early, they should receive no further stopping; if late, 
pinch the points out again about the middle of January. 
Grow on near the glass, in a light, airy structure, 
and, when the flower-trusses appear, give some weak 
liquid manure. Show Pelargoniums require good drain- 
age, and should be kept rather dry than otherwise, par- 
ticularly in autumn and winter, when progress in growth 
is but slow. Good fibrous loam, torn up by hand, with 
about one-fourth decayed manure or dried cow-dung 
added, and sufficient sand to keep the whole open, will 
form an excellent compost. It is important that the 
soil should be rendered firm in potting; otherwise, the 
shoots are inclined to become sappy, and lengthen more 
than is desirable. A good plan is that of preparing 
the compost some time beforehand, and thoroughly mix- 
ing it occasionally. 2 ibe 
When the plants are flowering, they should be shaded 
from sunshine, and be placed where plenty of air 
can be admitted; they are at all times most impatient 
of a close atmosphere. Decorative varieties are now 
very popular, and are extensively grown, because of their 
early flowering and compact habit. Young plants of these 
should not be stopped more than once; they should 
receive their final potting earlier, and be kept rather 
warmer in winter, than others which are intended for 
flowering later in spring. When the season of each is 
over, and the plants are removed from under glass, they 
should be placed out of doors, in full sunshine, for about 
a month, when they may be cut back, and again started 
into growth. 
Large specimen Pelargoniums are obtained by grow- ~ 
ing plants for several years. They may receive the treat- 
ment already described for the first season. After being 
eut back, about August, they should be kept syringed, 
and moderately moist at the root, until beginning to 
break, when they should be shaken out, the roots par- 
tially pruned, and replaced, with new soil, in pots a size 
smaller than before. Grow on in a similar way to young 
plants, and transfer, about the end of the year, to the 
flowering pots, which, for very large plants, need not 
exceed Sin. or Yin. in diameter. Timely attention must 
be given to training and tying the growths, in order to 
equalise and balance the head. When grown in din. or 
6in. pots, for ordinary decoration, a piece of matting 
may be tied round, beneath the rim; to this, other 
pieces may be temporarily attached for tying out the 
shoots. As the wood solidifies, it will usually remain 
in the position in which it has been placed, and the ties 
may be removed. Thus, established plants may be grown 
several years in pots of a similar size, the soil being 
annually renewed, and due attention given to feeding 
with manure water, or artificial manure, at the time the 
flowers are being formed, and when they are expanding. 
Fancy Pelargoniums. These form a class of plants 
with an exceedingly compact habit; their flowers, though 
small, are prettily marked, and borne in the greatest 
profusion. They are tenderer than the large-flowered 
